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Bike Florida: Trail Boosts Sustainable Tourism

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Bike Florida Trail.jpgWhat better way to explore some of the country's greatest natural treasures and historic sites than a bicycle tour through the back roads of Florida? And now, you can do it any time of the year! In an effort to help make Florida tourism greener, non-profit organization Bike Florida is bringing back year-round, long-distance bicycle touring for the first time in 25 years.

To inaugurate the new initiative, Herb Hiller and Linda Crider, co-founders of the modern-day Florida bicycling movement, will lead a week-long bicycle tour this October 10-16, starting and ending at Palatka, a rural county seat by the St. Johns River in northeastern Florida.

"For too long there's been no organized comfortable cycling way to discover backroads Florida," says Crider.  "These tours are organized for that, but also for fun."

Prepping for a Family Safari in Kenya

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It's less than a month to senior editor Norie Quintos's trip to Kenya (her third) with her teenage sons (their first). Here's how she's been prepping. This is the second in a series of blogs on the trip. Click here to see the first.

Photo: GiraffeKenya currently remains under a U.S. State Department travel warning due to "threats of terrorism and the high rate of violent crime." (Many on-the-ground experts say this designation is unfair, undeserved, and politically motivated, but that's another story). I consulted the travel intelligence folks at iJet, who said that if I avoided the northwestern border areas, as all safari itineraries do, and practiced basic personal precautions, there was no reason to stay away. As with any trip to a developing country, or any trip really, I wanted a tour operator that would be able to respond effectively should the unexpected and unlikely happen. There are many established safari companies that fit the bill. The one I selected--New York-based Micato Safaris--maintains deep ties to Kenya; its Kenyan founders still reside in Nairobi. The company also uses the services of a group of aircraft-supported physicians if medical treatment is necessary.
We recently touched base with Dominique Callimanopulos, founder and CEO of Elevate Destinations, a boutique travel services company specializing in high-quality, environmentally responsible travel and philanthropy, to learn more about her company, their trips, and the good work they do in the communities they visit.

Masai.jpgWhat is Elevate Destinations?

Elevate Destinations is a philanthropic travel company that gives back to the communities we visit. We donate five percent of the net costs of all our trips to vetted NGOs active in conservation and community development in the destination countries. Wherever possible, we select eco-hotels and sustainable lodges that also give back to community. We incorporate community engagement and service elements into our customized itineraries. We have become specialists in the area of donor travel: bringing board members and donors from A-list international organizations to visit projects in the field. We've designed trips for Direct Relief International, EcoLogic, KickStart, The Global Fund for Children, and WaterPartners International, among others.

I see you offer trips in Latin America, Africa, India and Bhutan, New Zealand, and Southeast Asia. Which trips/regions are the most popular?

African safaris are very popular. Central America is on the rise, because it is easy to travel to. We are also getting a lot of requests for Southeast Asia and Bhutan is emerging as a compelling destination as well. This month we will also be introducing trips to Mongolia.
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If you're like us, you're probably already thinking about your Memorial Day weekend - which officially kicks off the summer travel season. And if you're looking for deals (and who isn't?) we've got some great ones. Senior editor Norie Quintos, who assembled our "50 Tours of a Lifetime" cover story on our May/June issue, could have just stopped there, but she just put together a fantastic cheat sheet on our website with some of the best tour deals around. "It's a buyer's market, and it won't last forever," she writes. Check out the entire list here.

Photo: Topher Donahue

How Guided Tours Can Save the World

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Jim Sano_GeoEx.jpgSenior editor Norie Quintos, who edits the annual Tours of a Lifetime special issue currently out on newsstands, talks to Jim Sano, president of San Francisco-based Geographic Expeditions, one of the oldest and most trusted guided tour operators in the country (NOTE: not associated with National Geographic Expeditions), about where the industry is headed and the role travel plays in making the world a better place.

How are current economic conditions changing guided travel?


I don't have a crystal ball, but I can say we have weathered many storms. This one may be more significant than 9/11, SARS, and the Gulf War because it is so global and pervasive up and down the economic ladder, affecting the highest end travelers as well as value travelers.

Are you making changes in your programs?


Yes. We're moving towards shorter and shorter holidays. This has actually been a trend over last few years, but for many people in the current climate, the degree of comfort to which they feel they can be away from home, as well as finding the time, has been foreshortened.

Where are people traveling?


We've seen our South American offerings, including the Galapagos, go up from last year.

I know you are planning programs several years out. What are the new destinations of the future?

Cuba is one of the countries on our radar screen. We have done educational trips to Cuba in the past, but there is a pent-up demand and we're doing legwork on that now and will be ready when conditions change. We're also looking at the west coast of Africa as an area yet to be explored; it is very rich culturally.

Your company's roots are in long adventure treks in Asia. But I've noticed your catalog has diversified and is offering fewer hard-core treks.

Whereas before 80 percent of what we offered in the '70s and '80s was trekking, now it's just under 20 percent. That's true for many other companies that started at the same time. The degree to which people want to do the harder treks has lessened dramatically. The people who used to trek now want to do something softer. They may want to hike during the day, but then they want a hot shower and glass of wine. We've adapted by offering both. There's an upcoming trip we're doing with Peter Hillary (son of Everest climber Edmund Hillary), going to South Georgia Island to retrace Shackleton's trek across the island. Part of group will be crossing with Peter; it's difficult glacier travel. But a majority of the group will stay on the vessel. Of the 80 to 100 passengers, we may get 20 who want to do the crossing. But the others still want the opportunity to rub shoulders and learn from Peter Hillary and top-notch mountaineers.

Tours of a Lifetime: River Cruising Through Europe

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Contributing editor Margaret Loftus will help you decide if a European river cruise is right for you. Check out our May/June 2009 50 Tours of a Lifetime issue for more great tours.

Swiss Sapphire in Maastrich.jpgBy its nature, riverboat cruising is a far more intimate affair than the behemoths that cruise the open seas. Last year, I spent three days aboard the 118-passenger riverboat Swiss Sapphire as it plied Belgium's Albert Canal. Soaking up the local scene is all part of the journey, on the boat and off. "You're not having as big of a footprint, you're able to get more into a destination, rather than looking at it inside of a bubble," argues Tom Armstrong, spokesman for Sapphire operator Tauck World Discovery. Underway, I watched joggers and bikers along the canal from my cozy quarters (rooms range from 150 to 300 square feet) and marveled at how the captain carefully negotiated the river's locks. Onshore excursions typically emphasize local interaction, such as our visit with the chocolatier or lunch at a local's home. Bicycles are provided for those who'd rather strike out on their own.

Outfitters tout European river cruising as a convenient mode of travel - there's minimal schlepping and you only unpack once-- and a good value. Rates range from $150 to $400 a day and are usually all-inclusive--an
especially decent deal when the euro is stronger than the dollar. These days, several operators are offering added incentives for those who book early. Uniworld, for instance, is knocking $300 off the brochure price per person if you book a 2009 cruise and pay in full before May 30.  A plus for solo travelers: Tauck is eliminating single supplements on select river cruises, including its 12-day Budapest to the Black Sea trip.
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Our May/June issue is on its way to your mailbox this week, and will be on newsstands shortly. Inside is a bevy of treasures, including one of my favorite roundups of the year (perfect for those IWTGTT moments), our 50 Tours of a Lifetime.

Senior Editor Norie Quintos and contributing writer Meg Loftus scoured the globe for some of the most interesting and far-flung excursions around, and then helpfully diced them up into three categories: Active, Classic, and Cultural.

What's on our wish list? Sailing a gulet between the Greek and Turkish Dodecanese islands. Snorkeling with humpbacks off the island of Tonga. Following the route of the Crusaders through the Euphrates Valley in Syria. The options go on and on, and thankfully, in these tough economic times, many of these tour operators are offering add-ons and extras to convince travelers to get going.

We've also highlighted three tours in detail: A ramble through the Bavarian highlands; the moutaintop route to Macchu Piccu, and a self-guided tour along the Atlantic coast of Newfoundland. You can find slideshows of images from the stories online, pick up the issue for the full scoop - plus more on Baltimore, Kyoto, and Krakow.

Awesome Tour Alert: Turkey

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Fifteen years ago, a recently-graduated British archaeologist decided to walk 2,000 miles across Turkey, following a section of Alexander the Great's ancient path from Troy to Iskenderun (with a heavy backpack and plenty of stops at ruins and ancient battle sites along the way).

Sound crazy?
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Well, maybe a little. But it seems to have worked out, because right now Peter Sommer (the aforementioned archaeologist and Alexander the Great enthusiast) is embarking on yet another tour that hits many of the same highlights he explored back in 1994. These days, however, he is paid to do it.

Sommer runs Peter Sommer Travels, which offers expert-led tours throughout Turkey and Greece. Given the background of the tour guides (historians and archaeologists - many with PhDs), the tours are certainly educational, but there is also plenty of time for fun, relaxation, and eating wonderful Turkish meals...oh, and did I mention that the tours get from one place to the next on hand-built gulets?

"We tend to cruise for about three to four hours per day, with stops in idyllic coves for swimming, snorkeling, or something more physical like kayaking or windsurfing," says Sommer. "We normally visit one ancient city per day, usually in the late afternoon, when the heat of the day has passed. That's when our specialist guides bring the ruins and the history to life."

So, basically, sail through paradise, then let an expert tell you stories of past civilizations while you stand on the ground where history was made. I'm sold!

A variety of tours are offered spring through fall. Check out www.petersommer.com for more details. And stay tuned for more amazing and enriching tours in the May/June issue of Traveler.

Photo courtesy of Peter Sommer Travels

Cupcake Bike Ride

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It's no secret here at Traveler that we'll go just about anywhere for a good cupcake. So when our Geotourism Intern Christina Stockamore told us about an actual bike tour with cupcakes built in we immediately demanded she share the details.

cupcake ride - group shot.jpgWill work for baked goods: Christina, far left, poses with the group.

cupcake2.jpgAfter purchasing my first road bike a few months ago, I was anxious for the weather to turn a little warmer to join a group bike ride. I noticed that City Bikes, a full-service shop in D.C., offers a weekly 18-mile bike ride called the Cupcake Ramble. The route starts at their shop in Adams Morgan, passes through Rock Creek Park and ends at their other location in Chevy Chase, Maryland. The best part: The ride is led by pastry chef Sol Schott, of the popular D.C. eateries Open City, Tryst, and The Diner.  

So on a recent weekend I decided to try it out, and I met the group at 11 a.m. on Sunday outside City Bikes in Adams Morgan. Sol arrived a few minutes later apologizing for his delay--he had just wrapped up his work in the bakery. I noticed we had a mixture of bikes--road bikes, hybrids, cruisers--and as we got moving, I was grateful that mine had gears.  

Tour Guide: Channel Your Inner Greentrepreneur

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EastBayGreenBus.jpg If you've spent time on planet Earth recently, you may have heard the term "green-collar jobs." President Obama says they will play a key role in rebuilding our economy, Time published an article analyzing the term's meaning, and author/activist Van Jones wrote a New York Times best-seller on the subject.

So...How exactly does one tap into this new, sustainable business trend?

To find out, you may want to take a little field trip - kind of like when Luke Skywalker went to Yoda's swamp to learn to use the Force, except you get to go to Berkeley, eat at green restaurants, talk to successful business owners, and watch as an out-of-commission railroad car is smashed to pieces and recycled.

Oh, and instead of a little green creature (what is Yoda exactly?), your guide will be an informed, enthusiastic human with East Bay Green Tours.

Intrigued? Read more after the break.
 

Stretch Your Sea Legs in Boston

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We'd like to welcome Traveler Intern Giovanna Palatucci, who is getting her sea legs on the blog with this, her first post. 

Walk to the Sea Panel.JPGPicture this: cows grazing on Beacon Hill, burlesque theaters in Government Center, and waves crashing at the Old State House doorstep. Certainly this is not what Boston looks like today. As modern architecture and planning quickly propel the design of our cities into the future, one group pauses to map out Boston's beginnings and transformation into a major urban center.

The Walk to the Sea, entering its first spring and summer seasons, is the latest walking tour to hit Boston. The route highlights the evolution of the city over four centuries, focusing on Boston's ties to the sea and covering ground that was once part of an active harbor.

The trail follows a one-mile route, descending 100 feet from Beacon Hill to the Long Wharf, passing historic landmarks and modern skyscrapers. Ten glass and stainless steel informational panels mark the path and explain Boston and American history through images and maps. Beginning in May, visitors can log on to the website to download an audio tour for the walk right to their iPods. And we like this eco-friendly feature: a small wind turbine on the top of the last panel keeps the signs illuminated for nighttime tours.

Walk to the Sea intersects two of Boston's famous walking trails: The Freedom Trail and the Black Heritage Trail. For those who can't get enough of walking tours through historic Boston, check out the Fairmont Copley Plaza's Freedom Trail Discovery Package, available this year from April 1 through December 31 for $349. The package includes a one-night stay in one of the Fairmont's elegant guestrooms, two tickets to the Walk Into History tour with 18th-century costumed guides, two tickets to the three Freedom Trail historic museums, and a copy of The Freedom Trail: An Artist's View.

Photo: Courtesy of The Walk to the Sea

Tour Guide: Flip Out in Jackson Hole

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A 20330.jpgEco-boutique Hotel Terra is giving guests one more reason to stay in Yellowstone this summer. From May 1 September 30, the Jackson Hole hotel is offering the new "Eco Adventure" summer package, which includes a wildlife tour (hosted by wildlife biologist Taylor Phillips) and free Flip video camera to keep. The rates for the package start at $348 per night for two, or $570 per night for a family of four. On the wildlife tour, guests will ride in a bio-diesel-fueled vehicle (the tour also includes an organic lunch).

hotelterra.jpgThe hotel--Jackson Hole's only LEED-certified digs--is located just outside the entrance to Grand Teton National Park and offers a variety of green features, from eco-shake roof shingles, energy-efficient heating and cooling systems (100% of their electric power is offset), energy recovery technology, natural water runoff mitigation, as well as sophisticated recycling programs.

For reservation information, check out www.hotelterrajacksonhole.com or call +1 800 631 6281.

Photo: Hotel Terra
slum tours 1.jpgIn the course of fact-checking Peggy Loftus's latest online special on poverty tours, we talked with Reality Tours and Travel co-founder Chris Way. His company runs tours through Mumbai's Dharavi, considered by some to be Asia's largest slum. Since the rebound of tourism in Mumbai after last November's attacks and the buzz around Slumdog Millionaire, he guesstimates business is up 25 percent.

How did you create Reality Tours and Travel? How did you get it off the ground?
I got the idea from the favela tours in Rio. I found the concept fascinating with a lot of potential, as there was definitely a market for people wishing to see this side of the city. Having been in Mumbai previously in 2003 doing some volunteer teaching, I knew about the slums (although not Dharavi at that point) and so decided to return to India in late 2004 with this idea in mind. It quickly became apparent that Dharavi was this fascinating place, with so much industry/ energy/ sense of community that it would definitely appeal to tourists. Krishna, who I met in 2003 when he was waiting my table in Colaba, took a little bit of persuading that tourists would find this place interesting (!), but soon saw the potential and we then formed the company in September 2005. Reality Tours, after a few problems, started in January 2006.
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What's the rationale behind your no-camera policy? Do some tour-goers bristle at this prohibition?
We started off asking customers to be considerate and respectful while taking photos. We got some criticism in the press for the tours being voyeuristic and having seen some of the photos in the press (of our customers taking photos), we re-considered this policy and felt that on this issue, they had a point. Also there were some comments from people who felt aggrieved that these "rich people were coming here, taking photos and then making lots of money." We do find that the tour runs a lot more smoothly with the no-camera policy; there is no time wasted as photos are taken and people aren't distracted wondering where is the best location to take a photo; the focus is on the tour and the information behind it. To be fair, most people are fine with this policy and understand it, although some people would like some places where photos could be taken.

To what do you account the growth in numbers of people interested in and taking your tours over the past two years?
First and foremost, the area is fascinating and more people have got to know about the tours that we run through word of mouth and publicity in the press and guidebooks. As a company, I think we provide a very good, professional tour at a very low price and people see that we use the money in a responsible way. Also, I think that this kind of tourism is becoming more popular; people are not just interested in the landmarks and sites of historic importance, but also in the day-to-day lives of people, particularly where this way of life is different to their own.

Tours to India Soar with "Slumdog"

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slumdog.jpgTo many, it's no surprise that Hollywood-hit Slumdog Millionaire took home eight Oscars, including Best Picture and Best Director. But who knew it would boost tourism in and around Mumbai, a city whose tourism industry was hit hard after the 2008 terrorist attacks?

"There was a time when most travelers tried to avoid the dicey parts of town," says National Geographic Traveler contributing editor Margaret Loftus in our online special "Slum Tours: Real or Real Tacky?" "But an increasing number are now seeking them out on so-called reality tours. From Rio's favelas to Mumbai's Dharavi slum to Nairobi's Mukuru district, the trend is gaining steam as the latest frontier in travel."

According to the Economic Times, "Mumbai now tops the chart of global tourist destination followed by countries like Japan, made popular by the movie 'Memoirs of a Geisha', South America because of 'Motorcycle Diaries' based on Che Guevera's life, and New Zealand for the 'Lord of the Rings' which has 17 Oscars to its credit for the trilogy."

Arthur Hoffman, managing director of Expedia Asia-Pacific, told the Times "movies have a powerful ability to evoke a sense of the exotica about the locations in which they are filmed. They are widely acknowledged to inspire travel to those destinations. For travellers, the fascination of picturing scenes in the film and then comparing it to real life can lead to a strange sense of déjà vu, particularly for those who have seen the movie several times."  

Our colleagues at National Geographic magazine were on the ground in Mumbai -- Slumdog's setting -- documenting the construction of India's superhighway for their October '08 feature, "Fast Lane to the Future,"  with photographs by Ed Kashi.  Called the Golden Quadrilateral, this new highway is an enormous, ambitious infrastructure project connecting Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkota and Bangalore, improving quality of life and bringing economic opportunities to much of India (although there are plenty of disadvantages as well). Check out their video after the jump.

Tour Guide: Paris Greeters

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Paris Greeters.JPGNG News Editor Christine Dell'Amore is just back from a holiday in Paris, and she got to see the city with the help of one helpful local...

Anyone who's visited France has heard about the country's legendary rudeness - even the Mona Lisa only cracks a half-smile. That's why Paris Greeters, a volunteer group of enthusiastic locals-turned-tour-guides, has made its raison d'etre to shatter the snotty stereotype once and for all.

These multilingual welcomers lead free, private tours of the city to make you feel like "a Parisian for a day." The tours, as I learned in December, show you behind-the-scenes neighborhood gems that you probably wouldn't find on your own.


Amazing Race for Regular People

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Competitours.pngIt takes a pretty nervy guy to launch a new business in this economy. But Steve Belkin thinks he's got an idea that will sell. The inveterate traveler and former television producer's new venture is a tour company called Competitours, in which teams of two (couples, friends, parent-and-child) travel through Europe completing "challenges" and competing for a grand prize (another trip).

Picture Amazing Race without the frenzy. Challenges are set up for maximum exposure to the culture, not as a test of speed or prowess. One challenge might be to make a 45-second commercial at a Viking museum in Oslo. Another might be to try a dead man's finger in Copenhagen (which turns out to be a hotdog). Points are accrued by completing tasks and videos are judged for creativity, not cinematography. "This isn't about using an expensive camcorder, but being creative and original," notes Belkin.

Tour Guide: Tea Tourism

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Photo: tea timeIndia tourism officials have recently launched a new branch of tourism in hopes of drawing British visitors to their country. The Times reports that India wants to raise its number of British arrivals from some 800,000 to over one million visitors in the next two years, and in order to do so, they're luring Brits with their favorite brew: tea.

India is the largest producer of tea, contributing over 30% of the world's tea at more than 500 plantations around the country. Many plantations have developed accommodations--from simple cottages to five-star resorts--for guests. Nathmull's Tea in Darjeeling (one of the oldest companies in the region and producing, of course, Darjeeling tea) provides a number of suites for tea enthusiasts for as little as $200 (10,000 Rs) for two per night, including transportation from local airports, all meals, nature walks, tours of the plantation, and, naturally, all the tea you can drink.

Close by, the Glenburn Tea Estate provides similar all-inclusive accommodation for some $400 for two people per night. Those seeking a more intimate experience in India should check out Mahindra Homestays, which organizes trips to smaller B&B-type stays, including places in Kerala from about $75 per night.

Photo: Sadaloha via the Intelligent Travel Flickr pool

Photo: Over Antarctica

Want a quick way to check the seventh continent off your must-see list? An Australian company offers a 12-hour sightseeing flights of Antarctica. Since 1994, Croydon Travel (in conjunction with Qantas) has been taking tourists on air tours of the icy South Pole. During the flight (three hours getting to the ice, four hours over the ice, and the remaining time returning to departure cities Melbourne or Sydney), Antarctic experts talk about the history and environment of the continent and answer passenger questions. The price? Seats start at $999 each. That's a lot cheaper than any cruise to the area. But of course, there are catches.

Like any large aircraft, there are middle seats. While passengers on this Qantas 747-400 are assigned two seats—people in most of the cabins will get to rotate during the flight to give everyone a chance at a window seat—those paying $999 only pay for a middle seat and do not get to participate in the seating rotation. During the time over the ice, all passengers are allowed to get up to look out the windows, but, if you're like me, if I'm paying $999 for a view of the Antarctic, I don't want to miss a minute of it. The next type of seat offered (Economy Class Standard) goes for $1399. Ouch. And that doesn't even factor in the amount of C02 you're pumping out into the atmosphere as you're on board the flight. Conservation International's carbon offset calculator estimates you're responsible for 3.1 tons of C02 for the flight.

Eh. I'm with Gadling on this one. For a couple grand (plus the cost of a flight to Australia), I'd much rather save the money to take a sustainably-minded cruise instead. 

Photo: courtesy Croydon Travel

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Tour Guide: All Dogs Go to Manhattan

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Photo: Dog in New York Earlier this summer, I stumbled upon a quiet mountain getaway that caters to those who love to travel with their beloved pooch, a peaceful cabin with more dog-friendly amenities than most Marriotts have for their human guests. But if that sort of vacation seems like barking up the wrong tree for you and your pet, here’s another option: Take in the sights and bright lights of the Big Apple together with New York Dog Tours.

The company offers different tour routes in three key NYC areas, hitting up all the “hot” dog spots along the way. On the Midtown tour, for example, one of the stops is at Madison Square Park’s legendary Shake Shack, famed for its burgers, hot dogs, and Purple Cow shake. For your furry friend, order the Pooch-ini, vanilla custard with peanut butter and a delectable dog treat on top. This route goes well beyond burger stands though, as a guide will take you to places like the New York Public Library, the Empire State Building, and Madame Tussauds House of Wax (though sorry, no pets are allowed inside).

The Central Park tour sidesteps such dog discrimination, however. This route remains mostly outdoors, taking you past famed park monuments, such as the Belvedere Castle and Tavern on the Green, while your guide spouts off little-known stories behind the landmarks. The tour starts talking your dog’s language upon reaching the famous Gray’s Papaya, revered for its hot dog perfection. The final dog-walking tour takes you through downtown New York, searching for perfect views of Ellis Island and the Statue of Liberty, as well as the iconic SoHo restaurant Bubby's Pie Co.

These two-hour weekly tours cost $30, and begin at 3 and 6 p.m. on varying days.

Photo: via Carl Derrick's Flickr.

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Tour Guide: "Lost" in Hawaii

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Former Traveler intern Catherine Pearson is on her way to explore Australia, but she stopped off for ten days in Oahu, Hawaii on the way. We're not going to suggest it was only for the purpose of taking the Lost TV Tour—no, she's not nearly that obsessed . . .

Photo: The Lost plane crash site

Recognize this beach? It's the crash site in the pilot episode of Lost.

As if Hawaii didn't have enough reasons to visit, Oahu offers one more: the Lost TV Tour. I was at a wedding in Honolulu when I heard about the chance to see where they film my favorite show, so I booked the next available slot. Big Kahuna Hawaii gives options ranging from two-hour off-road adventures to exclusive private party tours. I chose Hawaiian Escapades' regular Lost TV tour, eight hours of scene-spotting, hiking, and swimming with a vanful of fellow Lost fanatics from around the world. Our crew hailed from Macedonia, Saudi Arabia, and the mainland U.S.

As soon as all 12 of us had squeezed in the vehicle, our guide gave us the good news: The Losties are going back to the island. And the bad news: They won't need their tents anymore. So, the crew has taken them down, a major disappointment for tour-goers.

"We come for the tents only!" one of the Macedonians said and jokingly demanded a discount. It didn't help when the list of what we wouldn't see grew. The polar bear was computer-generated, as were the palm trees on the Waianae mountains (the range shown from a distance on the island). The hatch was stored away as a prop and the Others' pier was on the other side of the island, too far for our eight-hour trek.

But what our tour lacked in tents, it made up for in conversation. Stories of cast sightings, guesses at filming dates, and analysis of Sayid and Jin's dismal attempts to speak Arabic and Korean, respectively, filled the drive time. We glanced out the window to see Hawaii's glass-walled convention center, or "the Sydney Airport," on our way to Mokuleia beach, "the crash site." Appearing much more narrow than usual, the beach resumes its familiar width when the concrete barriers are gone and sand covers the road. The plane wreckage, the crashed plane where Boone meets his demise, and stacks of the Losties luggage are stored behind a chain-link fence down the road at a later stop.

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