Janelle Nanos: March 2009 Archives

What do you do when a you're photographing a row of 800-year-old icons, and they insist that you make sure and get their good side? On his new blog, photographer Bob Krist, who has shot for National Geographic and Traveler magazines, explains the intricacies of shooting moai statues at Ahu Akivi on Easter Island, which he photographed while on a recent trip with National Geographic Expeditions. Using a million-candlepower flashlight, he "lightpainted" the structures to ensure that they were properly lit during the twilight photo shoot. Suffice it to say it was no simple task, as he almost broke his leg in the process. Full details here.

For more images of the moai on Easter Island, check out National Geographic magazine's collection of My Shot images from the island. When they get enough, they plan to make a Photosynth of the pictures, so contribute yours now.

Photo: Bob Krist

We were thrilled to find out last night that we'd been selected as the Best Consumer Travel Blog in the Lonely Planet Travel Blog Awards! Thanks so much to the judges and the voters - and particularly to the readers - who have helped our little blog grow exponentially over the past few years. We love what we do at National Geographic Traveler, and we're so glad that we're able to share what we love about travel with you every day on Intelligent Travel.

Congrats to all of the winners, who were announced over Twitter last night at @lplabs. Lonely Planet asked all of the winners to tape a video or audio acceptance speech - so here's ours - check them all out here. UPDATE: The complete list of winners is also now available online.

For those of you who are new to the blog, please bookmark www.intelligenttravelblog.com and visit us often! Thanks! 

My heart almost skipped a beat yesterday when I saw the trailer for the new Where the Wild Things Are film, perhaps because the classic children's book by Maurice Sendak was one of my first encounters with the idea of running away - a concept that I still so closely associate with travel.

For those of you who don't know the premise, it's the story of Max, a bad little boy who was sent to bed without any supper. When he arrives in his bedroom, he finds it transformed into a magical forest, one inhabited by tremendous beasts who crown him king. But Max eventually grows homesick and returns back home, where his supper is waiting for him, still hot. The book was only 10 sentences long, but it won a Caldecott Medal and is considered a literary classic (did you know that Sendak named many of the beasts after his aunts and uncles?); its adaptation was written by Dave Eggers and directed by Spike Jonze. Mark your calendars for October 16, 2009, when the film will be released.

Is there a children's book that inspired you to travel? Let us know in the comments, or email us your favorites. 

Read More: Cinematical has some fantastic still images from the film. Read more about Sendak's life and work in the notes from "Wild Things: The Art of Maurice Sendak" which was exhibited at the Jewish Museum in 2005. 

When a slip of the non-native tongue ends in sexual innuendo, things can get awkward. Our friends over at Glimpse, National Geographic's website for young people living abroad, just listed their Top Five Accidental Sexual Innuendo moments, and they're hysterical. One thing we learned: You shouldn't imply that you're "in heat," while visiting a Russian banya.

Have a cringe-worthy moment? Share your tips here.

Photo: Nick Fitzhugh

Ah Dubai, it seems every time we hear news about the fine city, it's always some over-the-top project that aims to surpass some other over-the-top project announced last month. So I was glad to hear news that the latest idea to surface is a sustainable tourism initiative - the industry is taking steps to protect their environment, reduce CO2 emissions, and lower utility costs. Travel Mole reports:

A detailed roadmap, with clear phases, timelines, target dates, and benchmarks aimed at progressing the initiative for sustainable tourism, will be communicated to all of Dubai's hotels and hotel-apartments shortly.

Some of the hotels which have signed-up so far include, Emirates Towers, Madinat Jumeirah, Movenpick Hotel and The One & Only Royal Mirage.

Dubai hotels generally still lag behind their counterparts in Europe, where the average hotel produces 3,000 tonnes of CO2 emissions per annum. In Dubai that figure is 6,500 tonnes and the size of the carbon footprint produced by all hotels in Dubai, is well over 500 million kilos a year.

It's an important step, and we're excited to see them adopting smart principles.

Photo: The "fronds" of the $14-billion Palm Jumeirah in Dubai by Alexander Heilner via National Geographic Magazine's Visions of Earth

I have to admit, I did not really anticipate the sheer amount of outdoor activities that are available in Israel. I guess part of me suspected that between the religious artifacts and ruins, and the city of Tel Aviv, there wouldn't be much time left to get outside and get dirty. But I found three ways to get covered in the stuff. Here are some highlights:



Desert Touring

After our Dead Sea soak, I was just about ready to turn round and head back to Jerusalem. But I'm so glad that we didn't, as we ended up heading over to the protected land just south of the Ein Bokek hotel quarter, where we were met with two Jeeps that looked like they'd been props in an Indiana Jones film. Our drivers took them out onto the salt mountains of Sedom, which are thought to be the site where the Biblical story of Sodom and Gomorrah took place. Perhaps it was because it was the "magic hour" - that time when the sun makes everything seem as though it's lit from within - or because it was, after visiting Tel Aviv and Jerusalem, so distinctly remote. But the ride was incredible. The region is protected parkland, and hiking and cycle trails crisscrossed our route, but all comers should plan on making their way up to the peak to take in the stunning views of the Dead Sea and Jordan. The group we went with, Shkedi, also offers moonlight tours (which they say are enhanced by not using headlights, which makes me a little nervous) and camping within the park grounds. It's the warmest place in all of Israel, and I would have easily spent the night.

If you're a fan of this blog, you already know I tend to love tossing around the phrase, "Get inside the map." And this is exactly what you can do with the new online interactive map of Istanbul we've got up on our website. "The Sultanahmet district, containing the city's main tourist attractions, continues to mesmerize--like the recent discovery of frescoes from Constantine's Great Palace during construction of the Four Seasons Hotel addition," writes Anastasia M. Ashman in our latest issue. "This is also the district to go to for a wave of new shops that channel the city's heritage with goods like playful Ottoman-themed clothing, avant-garde felt hats, and contemporary kilim patchwork rugs. Read on for tips on how to get to the heart of the town named a European Capital of Culture for 2010."

From the Grand Baazar to the Rustem Pasha Mosque, a "hidden secret" covered with tulip tiles, we've got the lay of the land down. Check it out here. 

It may not have appeared on many of our calendars, but yesterday was Africa Environment Day. To recognize the event, the South African Embassy hosted representatives from several African nations yesterday afternoon to discuss some of the initiatives their countries are working on to support sustainable environmental and economic development. After attending the session, I was impressed with the range of ideas and projects being put forward.

For example, right now Gabon is still glowing from the international attention it received while it played host to the season of CBS's hugely-popular Survivor: Earth's Last Eden series. Over 18 million people saw that the country was safe and politically stable, said Mireille Obame Nguema Moore, who was speaking on behalf of the ambassador. She said the country is now working on several projects, and aiming to become a "leader and innovator in conservation and sustainable tourism."

One major Gabon initiative was the creation of 13 national parks, achieved with the help of National Geographic Explorer-in-Residence Michael Fay of the Megatransect project. The Gabon government continues to promote sustainable tourism through programs like Operation Loango, which helps train eco-guides in Loango National Park, who then act as ambassadors to the local community to promote the value of the park. They've also been working with PPG-Congo to establish a gorilla release program in the country, and have released 50 rehabilitated or orphaned gorillas into the wild. Increasingly interested in attracting the adventure tourist, Gabon is creating infrastructure to support travelers, and plans a "rainforest airport" which would be the world's first sustainable airport.

This afternoon, I feel like I could easily spend several hours wandering through the galleries of SFMOMA. But alas, I live in Washington D.C. But wait! Late last year, they launched the ArtScope project, which allows you to search through the 3,500 items in their collection. It's a beautiful tool, and presents the works in a form that's almost as comtemplative as being in the museum itself. Check it out.

Read More: More and more museums are rolling out new tools to share their collections online. Know of another great tool? Tell us below.

Food is assuredly the best way to extend any trip, so in my effort to prolong my Israel experience, I decided to try and replicate one of the best meals I had while there and make shakshuka for breakfast this morning (I also might have smuggled some pita home in my suitcase, but that's neither here nor there).

My first encounter with the traditional Israeli breakfast dish was probably the best place in the world you can find it, on the large outdoor patio of Doktor Shakshuka, the eponymous restaurant in the old Jaffa neighborhood in Tel Aviv. The Doktor has been preparing this mix of spicy tomato sauce and poached eggs for two generations, and it comes served in the same cast-iron skillet in which it's made, with crusty fresh bread for dipping. We had only moments to eat before running off to our next stop, but we inhaled it so quickly that it was really all the time we needed. It was that good.

This morning I poked around on the web for a few recipes, and found a simple one here if you're up for making the tomato sauce yourself. I did the easy, or perhaps lazy version, using pre-made sauce, paprika, and poached eggs. Not nearly as good as the Doktor, but pretty tasty nonetheless.

Read More: My fellow blogger, Jennifer Laceda, serves up more great meals from our trip.  Food & Wine magazine featured the restaurant in their top Israel picks, and if you want an even more appetizing photo of the dish, check out the one here.

Doktor Shakshuka 4 Beit Eshel St, Tel Aviv

Photo: Janelle Nanos

No Noodle is Necessary When You "Swim" in the Dead Sea

Ten Things to Know Before You Go Bobbing in the Dead Sea

I try to avoid tourist traps when I'm traveling, but there is no way that I was skipping an opportunity to float in the Dead Sea, and truth be told, it is an experience for sure. But there are definitely a few things you should know before taking the plunge:

1) There is no such thing as swimming in the Dead Sea. When you sit your butt down in the water, it essentially feels as though you're floating in a pool with a plastic noodle. Only there's no noodle. Your feet and shoulders rise and bob, and it takes a few seconds of getting used to.

2) The salt that lines the sea bottom is rough on your feet, and will cut you up severely if you don't wear water shoes of some kind. (Naturally, I chose to wear the dorkiest ones I could find, and opted to put a picture of myself wearing them on the Internet). Protect your feet and plan accordingly.

3) Fast Facts: The Dead Sea is actually not a sea at all, but a lake that's made up of about 30 percent salt. It is the lowest place on earth at 417 feet below sea level. Its properties have been known to cure skin conditions and help with respiration, and its mud is used in spa treatments in the many hotels along the shoreline...

4) Being wrapped in mud is a very weird sensation. Being wrapped in mud and then wrapped in a blanket and then left in a dark room for 20 minutes feels a bit like being made into a human mud-bun.

5) Do not shave at least two days before you plan to take a dunk in the Dead Sea, and be prepared if you have any open cuts or sores while you're swimming, as you will quickly learn the real meaning of putting salt in one's wound.

If it isn't already in your mailbox, be sure to snag a copy of the latest issue of Traveler, now on newsstands. Check out the highlights:

• The second annual issue of our Stay List, with 129 top-notch hotels that ooze authenticity.

• A guide to Obama-town, a.k.a. Chicago, and a hit-list of all things gratis in the city.
  

• Get whisked away to Austria's lake country with our feature by P. F. Kluge. For a sneek peek of what's in store visit our Austria photo gallery.

• Reader favorite Daisanne McLane throws some elbows in her latest column about finding personal space while traveling. 

• Traveler Editor Keith Bellows talks with the "ultimate traveler," writer Paul Theroux.
  

• Get an insider's take on Istanbul with our interactive city map.
  

• Arrrgh you ready to take our WorldWise quiz on Pirates? We certainly hope so.
  

Pick up the latest issue, or subscribe now.

I've just returned from my visit to Israel, and since I finally have some time to actually blog, I'm going to be catching you up on many of my favorite experiences from the trip:

I already mentioned how fabulous the markets were in Tel Aviv, but there's something particularly interesting about arriving at the Mahane Yehuda street market on a Friday afternoon right before the start of Shabbat. To put it simply, it was frantic, as people throughout the city were doing their last-minute shopping before sundown (5:07 p.m. that day). In the midst of the madness, I was thrilled to find a moment of quiet, in the form of the Tower & Story Museum, a small gallery space that's tucked between market stalls. Photographer Yoram Amir has photographed scenes from around Jerusalem, and hung them in distressed window frames that are scattered throughout the apartment/gallery. But what's even better is that the second story balcony provides a great photo op of the market below. Check it out, along with other photos, after the jump.

Former National Geographic staffer Sarah Louise Galbraith is traveling around U.K. and writes to us about an unlikely creature living in the English countryside.

When first arriving to the Old King Street Farm, located on the English side of the England/Welsh border just a few miles from Hereford and Abergavenny, guests may expect to be greeted by grunts and snorts from animals typically associated with farms--pigs, sheep, cows, perhaps the odd rooster or two. But in the heart of the Welsh Marches, you're more likely to encounter a rather more unusual animal that typically makes its home not in the heart of the British Isles, but rather in the heart of the Andes in South America: the llama.  
 
Old King Street Farm is run by Amanda Huntley and Robert Dewar, and home to not one, not two, but fourteen llamas who live in this stunning part of England. Holiday makers who visit the farm have a unique the opportunity to get up close and personal with these kind-hearted beasts by participating in a llama trek. With half- and full-day treks, the outings are perfect for explorers of all ages.   
 
Arriving to the farm mid-morning, you'll be just in time to help round-up, halter, and groom the llamas before setting off on a llama trek through beautiful countryside. All of the llamas are impressively named--in true National Geographic spirit--after British standing stone circles, including Brodgar, after the Ring of Brodgar in Orkney, and Avebury, located in Wiltshire. No doubt that after spending a day at this family-friendly, sustainable farm with such aptly named animals you will be inspired to learn more about the llamas' archaeological namesakes and adventure beyond well-known Stonehenge to discover these remarkable heritage sites for yourself.
 
Setting off on the trek I was a bit wary of my new furry companion Doll Tor, affectingly known as Dolly, who was on her first proper trek off the farm. Dolly, a large llama with a bushy coat, was a true natural, happily humming besides me and negotiating the occasional mud puddle with more grace and ease than myself. She liked to look at the scenery, so we would often stop to take in the gorgeous green hills and watch the sunlight shift through scattered clouds. By the time we made it back to the farm two hours later, I'll admit, I was unabashedly in love with not only the landscape but with my llama, and envisioning how I could bring Dolly home with me. 
 
Luckily for me and other guests who have similarly fallen for their new furry friends and the farm, the llamas at Old King Street Farm have their own blog, so readers can keep up with the daily lives of Dolly and the rest of her friends.
 
Beyond llamas, there is also much to do in the area, including visiting the book town of Hay-on-Wye, world famous for its thirty secondhand and antiquarian bookshops, as well as for its annual Hay Festival of Literature and the Arts. Venturing further you can explore many historic villages and shops in nearby towns, including castle ruins, weekday markets, and more. Since Old King Street Farm also offers holiday stays in beautiful two- and four-person cottages, guests can stay overnight for a short break or a week at a time, allowing plenty of time to discover the hidden local gems.

Photo: Sarah Louise Galbraith

Our host explains the tenets of the Druze faith in Peki'in, Israel

When I signed up on this blogging trip through Israel, I was under the assumption that I'd actually have some time to blog. But I'm here for a week and the country is the size of New Jersey, so they've scheduled us to the point where little time is left for sleeping, never mind blogging. But it is kind of a kick to be introduced around Israel as a blogger. Apparently, from the people I've spoken to, blogs are not as popular here as they are in the States, so our group's visit was the subject of an article in the local paper. Tomorrow, they're planning to follow us on the local news channel.  Apparently, we're kind of a big deal.

When we arrived in Haifa, the Minister of Tourism mentioned that religious diversity was one of the most endearing features of her city. But in truth, I've found the layers of religiosity throughout the country to be fascinating so far. Our first taste was a visit to the Bahá'i Gardens, an exquisite 19-tiered network of landscaped terraces that cascade down the center of Haifa. In the middle is the Golden Dome where worshippers practice the Bahá'i faith, which holds that the many prophets that have appeared to different religions throughout time - be it Muhammed, Jesus, Buddha, or Moses--  all share God's message and have served as educators to spread his word. The Gardens themselves are postcard perfect, and it's fitting as the faith holds that your worship in part should take place outside, communing with nature. In contrast, going inside the Golden Dome is incredibly stark. It's a white space that's surprisingly small inside.

You can hopscotch through religious history easily in Haifa, as just a few minutes away from the gardens is the Stella Maris Church, built onto the side of Mt. Carmel, the origin of the Carmelite order of nuns. The altar of the church is built on top of a cave that is said to be the hiding place of the prophet Elijiah, when he was seeking to avoid persecution from King Ahab and Queen Jezebel. It seemed a bit Harry Potter-like to have a cave set in the midst of an otherwise austere church, but I quickly learned that it wouldn't be the most interesting thing I'd see all day.

I'm exhausted but otherwise quite thrilled to report that I've made it to Israel safely, and am now sitting in my hotel in Haifa, the third largest city in the country, which is about an hour and a half north of Tel Aviv. I flew in via El Al airlines, and the experience was in keeping with everything I'd heard and read about the airline: They were very thorough during check-in, and the flight itself was, to quote my guidebook, "rambunctious." It was a double-decker plane and everyone rushed to get onboard, and the plane was teeming with children, who thankfully for me and my neighbors were very well-behaved during the nine-hour flight. A middle seat is my least-favorite place to try and get some sleep, but I managed and arrived without a huge neck cramp, which was an added bonus.

At the airport, I met up with my group, all of whom are also bloggers (I assume I'll be linking to their posts as the days go by), and we then drove north to Haifa. Driving along Road 6, the major thoroughfare that splices the country, you begin to get your bearings in Israel. Avocado, mango, and olive trees line the highway. The Mediterranean is on your left, the green lights of the minarets on the mosques glow to the right, and then suddenly, patches of the wall that divides the Palestinian Authority from the rest of Israel appear along the roadside. Our driver said that 94 percent of the "Wall," as it's known here, is actually not concrete but fencing. But seeing a concrete section was a jarring reminder of the ongoing strife in the region.

In this month's issue of National Geographic magazine, writer Edward Hoagland and photographer Michael Yamashita document the dichotomy that exists at China's Jiuzhaigou Nature Reserve, a World Heritage site that gets over 18,000 visitors daily. The deep emerald-colored pools are considered magical by the Chinese: "Nowhere else under the sky," they say, "can match Jiuzhaigou." The images Yamashita took are the antithesis of images of China's urban sprawl we're most commonly accustomed to seeing. But the forests are also threatened - already, their panda population has been decimated, and though there's a growing call for more conservation efforts, items from illegally-harvested herbs to snow leopard pelts are still sold to tourists. Check out the full story here, and visit the photo gallery of images here.

Photo: Michael Yamashita 

A "walking tour" in New Holstein, Wisconsin

How many of us have signed up for a walking tour only to find ourselves wandering around distracted, wondering about all of the weird things that the tour guide overlooks? Turns out, the quirks are what makes a tour more authentic, according to Preservation Nation, the blog over at the National Trust for Historic Preservation. They're blogging from Chicago this week at the National Main Streets Conference, and posted about a lecture given by Anthony Rubano of the Illinois Historic Preservation Agency. In it, Rubano says that a good tour should incorporate the unexpected:

...[I]t's not just your downtown commercial buildings you should be highlighting. Waters towers, gas stations, grain elevators, or a two-story outhouse (no kidding) that are sites of interest. "If it is quirky, it is good and should be added to your walking tour," [Rubano says]. Even those advertising slogans and murals of decades past that are still clinging to the sides of today's buildings, called "ghost signs," also have a nostalgic appeal to residents and visitors alike.

Anthony's presentation was about leading walking tours in Springfield, Illinois and a majority of his images were from Illinois communities. But the ideas and program can be used by a Main Street community anywhere. People seek authenticity; you do not find walking tours of big-box stores or a new suburban shopping strip. Those who already have this interest in your downtown and its history will learn more with a successful walking tour, and more importantly, will spend more time and money in your downtown.

A smart, and seemingly obvious thought, but one we're more than happy to pass along. Have you taken a great walking tour that's captured the quirks of a place? 

Read More: For a recap of our tour coverage, visit our Tour Guide posts. 

Photo: Via Preservation Nation

Hello city-lovers! This was our first entry to come in from the under-10 set, and we had to admire the remarkably well-honed tastes of Ruby (age 4) and Kiva (age 8), who were eager to share the favorite spots in their Bay View neighborhood in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Also, we love anyone who puts a tater tot on their fine dining list.

The Bay View Neighborhood of Milwaukee, Wisconsin is Our City

The first place we take a visitor from out of town is the Farmer's Market at South Shore Park.

When we crave flavored milk, we always go Anodyne Coffee Roasters.

To escape the crowded city we head out on Lake Michigan in our kayaks.

If we want to climb on rocks we go to Cupertino Park.

For complete quiet, we can hide away in Seminary Woods.

If you come to my city, get your picture taken with the oldest copper beech tree in the state.

If you have to order one thing off the menu from The Palomino it has to be tater tots with Cajun cream dipping sauce.

We recently got a letter from reader Clay Shannon, of Oconomowoc, Wisconsin asking about the location of a photo in our Jan/Feb issue. But we'll let him ask in his own words:

There are two things I hate: 1) A photo of a beautiful, but undisclosed, location, and 2) A wet toilet seat.

When I see a striking photo, I want to know where it was taken. Case in point: page 12 of the Jan/Feb issue ("Smart Traveler"). I like to guess the location and then see if I'm right, but if the location is not attributed, how can I ever know? In this case, my guess is Nova Scotia.

Close Clay, but not quite. The photo was taken near Noli, Italy along the famous Via Aurelia (aka the Strada Statale 1) which was originally constructed in 291 A.D. Hopefully, we've solved the first of your problems.

If you have questions for, issues with, or feedback for Traveler magazine, please email us at Travel_Talk@ngs.org.

IT Editor Janelle Nanos has been blogging about her behind-the-scenes Mardi Gras Moments for the past few weeks, and she and a few other Traveler staffers went down to New Orleans to document the celebration.


While wandering the streets of New Orleans with the Societé de Sainte Anne parade, we National Geographic folk stumbled upon Danielle King, a photographer who was costumed as... a National Geographic photographer. Wearing a thick blonde mustache and a pith hat and vest, she carried around our iconic yellow border (cut from the pages of an actual magazine). Her project was called "Irrational Geographic," and she attempted to photograph both the wildlife, and the wild life, of the Mardi Gras experience. She snapped my portrait and I passed her my card, and lo and behold, a gallery of images arrived in my inbox a few days later. I loved them so much I just had to share them here, and asked King to explain the project in her own words.

Her e-mail after the jump.

Whenever I'm traveling, I'm eager to try the foods of a new place no matter where they're served; seat me at a restaurant with white-linen tablecloths or an oilcloth-covered table in a plastic lawn chair, and I'll eat whatever is in front of me. But my favorite kind of eating doesn't involves seating at all, the al fresco dining offered by a street vendors is my choice way try authentic eats.* Of course, this kind of dining can also be elusive, as it's apt to pack up and drive away, or move to another corner without warning. So I was psyched to learn that a new form of traveling food truck has emerged in Los Angeles. Both the LA Times and the New York Times have reported that Kogi Korean BBQ has created a brilliant business model which enables the hungry masses to track their truck via Twitter (@kogibbq). The New York Times piece describes the craze:

The food at Kogi Korean BBQ-To-Go, the taco vendor that has overtaken Los Angeles, does not fit into any known culinary category. One man overheard on his cellphone as he waited in line on a recent night said it best: "It's like this Korean-Mexican-fusion thing of crazy deliciousness."

All of which makes me think that the Twitter idea for street food make a lot of sense.