After a lovely long Labor Day weekend, I'm back at my desk and wishing I was still on the beach at Tybee Island, Georgia. I headed down south to Savannah and Tybee this past weekend and relied heavily on your picks, so thanks to all those of you who submitted them. They were, as always, fantastic.
Just after getting off my flight, my aunt drove us into Savannah for lunch. I've always loved visiting the city, which has been portrayed in recent history as the host to both Forrest Gump's famous bench and the bizarre true crime book (and film) Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil.
But I love how the antebellum culture of city is just as thick as the Spanish moss dangling from all the trees. Founded in 1733, it is known as America's first planned city, with 24 town squares that break up the grid of streets and offer residents a shady respite from the heat (Gump's bench was in Chippewa Square, but has since been placed in the Savannah History Museum). Cotton created an economic boom for Savannah, the results of which can still be seen in the downtown historic district, with its elegant homes, many with intricate wrought-iron porches. These homes and porches can still be appreciated thanks in part to the fact that Union general George Sherman decided not to burn the city down and instead offered it to President Lincoln as a Christmas gift.
We got about that close to history while dining out at Vic's on the River, a favorite of my aunt, which was also recommended by reader Katie. The restaurant is housed in an old cotton factory building that looks out onto the river, and you can watch from the windows as the riverboat cruises line up like ladies at a beauty pageant. The food had all the trappings of southern comfort, from the biscuits that arrived first with honey butter and marmalade, to our main courses, one of which was an amazing helping of shrimp and grits that had me longing for a larger plate. But the most authentic aspect of our meal wasn't on the plates at all, but hidden in the walls. We sat in the main dining room, just to the right of a map which was preserved under glass. I noticed that it hadn't hung like a typical artwork, and a small placard next to it explained that it had been found during a renovation of the building in 1901. During the Civil War, Union soldiers had occupied the building, and they'd mapped out General Sherman's march through Tennessee to Georgia on the plaster in the wall. It was a fascinating glimpse at history.
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