The 2009 North Korean Ariang Mass Games were just extended to October 10, Pyongyang reported last week. As it's the only time Americans are allowed into the country (with a four-night limit), more tours are being arranged at Koryo Tours company in Beijing. Friend of IT Ashley Thompson happened to visit Koryo Tours in June and filed this report.
Earlier this summer, while passing the time of an unexpected extra travel day in Beijing, I happened to stumble upon the Pyongyang Art Studio, located in the Chaoyang District near the famous Yashow Clothing Market. Pyongyang Art Studio is part of the Koryo Tours operations, "your PRK tour experts," founded in 1993 by Brits Nicholas Bonner and Josh Green.
Soon after opening, Koryo Tours took the first Westerners to the slopes of Mt. Paekdu. In 1995, more than 100 Koryo tourists arrived in one group to North Korea -- the largest contingent of Westerners to have arrived in the country since the end of the Korean War.
The opening of the Art Studio followed soon after. Today, the building houses the travel office, the gallery, and a store brimming with a broad range of authentic North Korean merchandise. Random items such as North Korean tea, cigarettes, vitamins, translations of books by Kim Jong Il, propaganda posters, specialty honey liquor and old maps of Pyongyang lined the stuffed shelves. This is the absolute closest I'm going to get to North Korean culture, I thought to myself. I bought some postcards and books and then headed to the art gallery, which featured an exhibition of North Korean film posters.
Koryo's co-founder Nicholas Bonner has produced three documentaries on the Hermit Kingdom since 1996. One of the films, which was featured in the poster gallery, is 2003's "A State of Mind." It follows two young gymnasts as they go through the grueling preparations for the country's annual Mass Games, a dazzling display of hundreds of thousands of acrobats, not performing for medals but rather for glorifying and giving hope to the country. Another featured movie was the story of a young woman who entered the sexist work-world of North Korean barbers, an esteemed profession in the country, as it's recommended that North Korean men have a haircut every 15 days.
Movies ranged in date from the '60s to the present, and nearly all had been approved, and perhaps heavily rewritten, by the Dear Leader or the Great Leader.
While perusing the gallery, I was able to chat with Koryo's Hannah Barraclough, who has made more than 30 trips to North Korea in the last three years leading tours. I asked her what it's like to be one of the estimated 2,000 annual foreign visitors to go to North Korea, and about the misconceptions of the planet's most mysterious country, and the stipulations for American tourists.
Continue reading for Hannah's interview...
Earlier this summer, while passing the time of an unexpected extra travel day in Beijing, I happened to stumble upon the Pyongyang Art Studio, located in the Chaoyang District near the famous Yashow Clothing Market. Pyongyang Art Studio is part of the Koryo Tours operations, "your PRK tour experts," founded in 1993 by Brits Nicholas Bonner and Josh Green. Soon after opening, Koryo Tours took the first Westerners to the slopes of Mt. Paekdu. In 1995, more than 100 Koryo tourists arrived in one group to North Korea -- the largest contingent of Westerners to have arrived in the country since the end of the Korean War.
The opening of the Art Studio followed soon after. Today, the building houses the travel office, the gallery, and a store brimming with a broad range of authentic North Korean merchandise. Random items such as North Korean tea, cigarettes, vitamins, translations of books by Kim Jong Il, propaganda posters, specialty honey liquor and old maps of Pyongyang lined the stuffed shelves. This is the absolute closest I'm going to get to North Korean culture, I thought to myself. I bought some postcards and books and then headed to the art gallery, which featured an exhibition of North Korean film posters.
Koryo's co-founder Nicholas Bonner has produced three documentaries on the Hermit Kingdom since 1996. One of the films, which was featured in the poster gallery, is 2003's "A State of Mind." It follows two young gymnasts as they go through the grueling preparations for the country's annual Mass Games, a dazzling display of hundreds of thousands of acrobats, not performing for medals but rather for glorifying and giving hope to the country. Another featured movie was the story of a young woman who entered the sexist work-world of North Korean barbers, an esteemed profession in the country, as it's recommended that North Korean men have a haircut every 15 days.
Movies ranged in date from the '60s to the present, and nearly all had been approved, and perhaps heavily rewritten, by the Dear Leader or the Great Leader.
While perusing the gallery, I was able to chat with Koryo's Hannah Barraclough, who has made more than 30 trips to North Korea in the last three years leading tours. I asked her what it's like to be one of the estimated 2,000 annual foreign visitors to go to North Korea, and about the misconceptions of the planet's most mysterious country, and the stipulations for American tourists.
Continue reading for Hannah's interview...
What is your job at Koryo Tours?
I organize independent travel to the DPRK as well as school trips/sports tours/cultural exchanges etc. I also lead some of our group tours to the country, and have been there 35+ times.
How long will the film posters exhibit be on display?
We plan on having them in the office gallery until mid-summer and we will then tour the exhibition- first stops are Shanghai and Hong Kong.
How did that project come together?
Nicholas Bonner has produce three documentaries on North Korea and been filming there since 1996 on various projects and slowly the collection formed. We wanted a way to best exhibit the imagery. But our aim was also to provide the contextual background to give the audience a taste not only of North Korean film genres, but also how these films are constructed to strengthen the ideological beliefs of the audience. The result is an accompanying book we have designed, which is soon to be released.
What have been some of the best received exhibits at the studio?
The exhibition we curated with the Korea Society in New York has been the most well received so far. Over 20 North Korean woodblock prints went on exhibit earlier this year and are now booked on a tour of major US and Canadian universities until 2011. We are co-curating and commissioning artwork for the North Korean exhibition for the Asia Pacific Triennial this December - it is Asia's most important art event and takes place at Brisbane Modern Art Gallery.
What were your preconceptions, and how did they differ/how were they similar to your first impressions?
To be honest, I didn't really have any preconceptions - I just went in with an open mind, saw what I saw and took everything in. Many people are aware of and form opinions about the country through what they read in the Western press, but visiting allowed me to see it from a different perspective.
Can you describe the rules for Americans traveling to North Korea?
They are only allowed to visit during the Mass Games which this year will be from August 10th to the end of September (with a possible extension to October 10th). They have a 4-night limit and can only take a plane in and out (no train travel).
Has there been an influx or a decrease in tour interests, in light of the recent North Korean tensions?
Hard to say, but probably an increase - this is probably due to the fact that being in the news, increases the country's exposure which leads to more people being interested in going there.
In general, how are you as a Westerner received in North Korea?
Very well. The Koreans are very friendly people and through my many visits I have built up some really good relationships with the people that we work with there. At no time have I ever felt that they are being hostile or that we are seen as the enemy - I feel completely welcomed and at ease there.
For a complete list of tours, visit Koryo Tours online.
Photo by Koryo Tours
I organize independent travel to the DPRK as well as school trips/sports tours/cultural exchanges etc. I also lead some of our group tours to the country, and have been there 35+ times.
How long will the film posters exhibit be on display?
We plan on having them in the office gallery until mid-summer and we will then tour the exhibition- first stops are Shanghai and Hong Kong.
How did that project come together?
Nicholas Bonner has produce three documentaries on North Korea and been filming there since 1996 on various projects and slowly the collection formed. We wanted a way to best exhibit the imagery. But our aim was also to provide the contextual background to give the audience a taste not only of North Korean film genres, but also how these films are constructed to strengthen the ideological beliefs of the audience. The result is an accompanying book we have designed, which is soon to be released.
What have been some of the best received exhibits at the studio?
The exhibition we curated with the Korea Society in New York has been the most well received so far. Over 20 North Korean woodblock prints went on exhibit earlier this year and are now booked on a tour of major US and Canadian universities until 2011. We are co-curating and commissioning artwork for the North Korean exhibition for the Asia Pacific Triennial this December - it is Asia's most important art event and takes place at Brisbane Modern Art Gallery.
What were your preconceptions, and how did they differ/how were they similar to your first impressions?
To be honest, I didn't really have any preconceptions - I just went in with an open mind, saw what I saw and took everything in. Many people are aware of and form opinions about the country through what they read in the Western press, but visiting allowed me to see it from a different perspective.
Can you describe the rules for Americans traveling to North Korea?
They are only allowed to visit during the Mass Games which this year will be from August 10th to the end of September (with a possible extension to October 10th). They have a 4-night limit and can only take a plane in and out (no train travel).
Has there been an influx or a decrease in tour interests, in light of the recent North Korean tensions?
Hard to say, but probably an increase - this is probably due to the fact that being in the news, increases the country's exposure which leads to more people being interested in going there.
In general, how are you as a Westerner received in North Korea?
Very well. The Koreans are very friendly people and through my many visits I have built up some really good relationships with the people that we work with there. At no time have I ever felt that they are being hostile or that we are seen as the enemy - I feel completely welcomed and at ease there.
For a complete list of tours, visit Koryo Tours online.
Photo by Koryo Tours
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Pretty strict terms for artwork that doesn't seem worth the trip
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Yeah,I agree with kelly...
http://www.airline-booking.com/thailand-travel-deals.html