Intelligent Travel

Here Is Where: A Forgotten Massacre

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In conjunction with his upcoming book, Here Is Where: In Search of America's Great Forgotten History, we're following historian and Legacy Project founder Andrew Carroll as he drives, flies, walks, boats, buses, bikes, and hikes to seek out little-known historic sites in all 50 states. Bookmark all of his posts here.

Mile Marker in Baker, NevadaNear the top of my "things to find" list for this 50-state journey are historic markers on major highways that come up out of nowhere and cannot possibly be read at 65 miles an hour. I've seen these plaques and signs on past trips, and I'm determined to locate one at some point so I can stop, back up along the shoulder (safely of course), and see what it says.

What brought this to mind was the faded brown and white sign I recently whizzed past on Highway 6 & 50 en route to Baker, Nevada, that simply states: "Historical Marker."

The sign gives no indication as to what site of historical significance awaits whomever ventures down the gravel road. Nor does it suggest how far one has to drive. I was running late, short of gas, and had no time for an open-ended adventure in the middle of a Utah desert.

But I knew I'd curse myself if I later found out I'd passed by some extraordinary site just a few hundred feet away, so off I went.
I drove for what seemed to be a few minutes--and nothing. This is ridiculous, I thought. How could the state or federal authority who placed that sign tease the curious traveler in such a way? I was just about to give up and turn around when I eventually came to a round-a-bout, and there in the middle was a stone marker next to a steel beam, which has the following etched into its side:

"Gunnison Massacre Oct 26 1853" and "More Info Great Basin Museum."

Site of Gunnison MassacreI was heading to Great Basin National Park, so I figured I would just ask there about the site. Before leaving I noticed that someone had left crushed beer cans and a purple bra right below the small stone memorial. Good heavens, I thought, what kind of person gets drunk and parties at a remote spot marking a national atrocity?

Later, at the Great Basin National Park visitor center, I asked about the Gunnison Massacre, and I was told that the Great Basin Museum in Delta, Utah, had all of the information about the spot, which is all but forgotten. (It wasn't until I came across this website that I finally learned what had happened there.) Not entirely forgotten, I said somewhat curmudgeonly, and then mentioned the beer cans and bra obviously left behind by some young hooligans. (I actually used the word "hooligans.") The staff member thought about this for a moment, shrugged, and said: "Well, maybe being out there inspired them to learn a little more about history."

That, I thought, is certainly one way of looking at it.

Next week: Denver, Colorado.

All photos and text © Andrew Carroll.

1 Comments

Wow, that's really annoying. If you get the captcha wrong it loses the text of your comment.

I might be able to help you figure out which marker it was. Might've been the lime kilns, which is about 3 miles off the track. How close to Baker were you? I take it you were traveling east.

I motorcycled, mostly solo, through NV in June/July on '06, looking for markers, but I wasn't able to hit that stretch you were just on. I did go to every county, though.

Weirdest thing I ever saw at a marker was a dead deer, all trussed up, ritualistic-like. Very creepy. Less creepy: the beer cans need a political sign for one Mr. Beer, running for office. ;)

I like the historian's attitude.


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Linda Gentile on Here Is Where: A Forgotten Massacre: Wow, that's really annoying. If you get the captcha wrong it loses the text of your comment. I migh

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