We can't get enough of love this week, so here, as supplement to our
Valentine's Day package, is a tutorial in some of the best American bubbly.
Sparkling wine--not to be confused with the traditional bubbly made in northeast France--is made in basically the same way as traditional Champagne, and American sparkling winemakers are popping up in surprising places around the country. One such maker is Gilbert Gruet, of France's Gruet et Fils. After visiting the United States in the 1980s, Gruet decided to plant an experimental vineyard in New Mexico. With its sandy loam (poor soil with good drainage) and microclimate (warm days and cool nights), the hills of the Southwest soon proved to be a prosperous grape-growing region. At over 4,000 feet (1,200 meters),
Gruet Winery is one of the highest-elevated vineyards in the country, but the soil and climate make it the perfect place for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, both commonly used in making sparkling wine. Winemaker Farid Himeur moved with the Gruet family from France to New Mexico and told us what to look for when buying sparkling wine.
Gruet Winery uses the traditional méthode champenoise when making its wine. What is the difference between méthode champenoise and the charmat method of making sparkling wine?Methode champenoise [the method used in Champagne as well] means that you use Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, hand-picking, slow whole-cluster pressing, and of course, a secondary fermentation in the bottle (which creates the bubbles by adding yeast and sugar at bottling). The yeast creates sediment that needs to be removed through the riddling process (turning bottles until they are upside-down). Once the bottle is upside-down with the sediment in the neck of the bottle, we freeze the neck (along with the sediment) and remove the crown cap. The pressure that has built up in the bottle will pop the ice cube (again, along with the sediment) and then we add the cork and wire hood, which is called the disgorging process.
The
charmat method is the actual fermentation of a whole tank (be it 1,000, 5,000, or 10,000 gallons) instead of a single bottle at a time. The wine is then bottled with bubbles (CO2). This process creates much bigger bubbles that do not last long in the glass.
What qualities should one look for when tasting sparkling wines?
One should look (as with regular wine) at color, effervescence
(mousse), and the wine should really be clear (sparkling). But most importantly, the glass should have a ring of mousse along the edge of the wine (called an aura) and against the wall of the glass--the smaller the size of the actual bubbles the better. One of the common mistakes that people make (as opposed to regular wine) is that one should not smell champagne, as all you get is CO2 in the nose. One should swirl the wine in his or her mouth and discover all the flavors of the wine.
Many people tend to drink sparkling wine during a celebration, but don't often consider pairing it to the food they are eating. What particular sparkling wines go well with certain foods? Sparkling wine goes well with anything, but particularly with spiced food, due to the wine's high acidity. It also goes well with delicate white fish and a light sauce.
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