Friend of IT Tobias Nowlan sinks into the murky depths that surround Panama's Isla Coiba.
The sunlight is obscured as hundreds of smooth-tailed manta rays float overhead. The swarm twists as the plankton feeders flex their sides like wings, then cruise away into the blue.
I'm scuba diving in waters around Isla Coiba, off Panama's Pacific coast, where giants graze on plankton soup. The seas are so thick with the stuff that visibility is often reduced to just a few meters. As a result, pelagic beasts can appear in front of you as if from nowhere, and vanish just as quickly, leaving me constantly wondering what could suddenly emerge from the deep. Two weeks prior to my arrival these waters were host to the largest fish in the world: the whale shark. Now the leviathans have moved on, and other colossal planktivores are stealing the scene.
Coiba is renowned as one of the world's top sites for viewing marine monsters like these, and I see plenty of plankton-feeding action. Troops of mantas sail by every few minutes, and 30-meter-high columns of blackfin barracuda, their torpedo-shaped bodies as long as my arm, surround and engulf me.
With air running low I approach the surface. As I do so, clicking and whining sounds become louder. A black shape the size of a small car looms in front of me; I pause nervously. I break above the water and not five meters away three pilot whales surface with me, blowing out jets of water as they take in air. Like submarines surfacing in fast forward, they rise and descend again in seconds. I glimpse them again at the surface 100 meters away - they must be moving with incredible speed.
I'm scuba diving in waters around Isla Coiba, off Panama's Pacific coast, where giants graze on plankton soup. The seas are so thick with the stuff that visibility is often reduced to just a few meters. As a result, pelagic beasts can appear in front of you as if from nowhere, and vanish just as quickly, leaving me constantly wondering what could suddenly emerge from the deep. Two weeks prior to my arrival these waters were host to the largest fish in the world: the whale shark. Now the leviathans have moved on, and other colossal planktivores are stealing the scene.
Coiba is renowned as one of the world's top sites for viewing marine monsters like these, and I see plenty of plankton-feeding action. Troops of mantas sail by every few minutes, and 30-meter-high columns of blackfin barracuda, their torpedo-shaped bodies as long as my arm, surround and engulf me.
With air running low I approach the surface. As I do so, clicking and whining sounds become louder. A black shape the size of a small car looms in front of me; I pause nervously. I break above the water and not five meters away three pilot whales surface with me, blowing out jets of water as they take in air. Like submarines surfacing in fast forward, they rise and descend again in seconds. I glimpse them again at the surface 100 meters away - they must be moving with incredible speed.
Continue reading Diving with Sea Monsters in Panama.











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