Results tagged “Virginia” from Intelligent Travel Blog

Senior editor Norie Quintos, just back from a weekend in Virginia's Northern Neck, filed this report.

Originally, I was supposed to go camping on the beach in Delaware with my friend Scott, but work piled up and we seriously needed Wi-Fi. Serendipitously, friends offered us their vacation home in Irvington, Virginia. Even better, we could bring the dog.

A few hours' drive southeast of Washington, D.C., Virginia's Northern Neck is the oft-overlooked sister of Maryland's more famous Eastern Shore. Many Washingtonians have no idea what or where it is (it's a peninsula and the surrounds between the Potomac and Rappahannock Rivers that spills into the Chesapeake Bay), though that has been changing as Eastern Shore properties have risen in price.

A few Northern Neck villages, such as Irvington, have been "discovered," and are developing rapidly. A longtime family-run resort, the Tides Inn, was purchased and overhauled in 2001 and turned into a member in good standing of Leading Hotels of the World. Plans are underway for a waterside condo development. Local entrepreneur/wheeler-dealer Bill Westbrook came on the scene and (with various partners) turned an old Victorian schoolhouse into the charming Hope and Glory Inn, and opened the hip restaurant Trick Dog Café, and a vineyard/winery called White Fences. These upgraded amenities have lured a different demographic, including the last-kid-in-college-now-I've-got-time-and-money set from Richmond (an hour away) and Washington, D.C. (three hours away).

Some urbanites have bought in to the weekend-in-the-country lifestyle through another of Westbrook's ventures, the Tents at Vineyard Grove, overlooking the White Fences winery. This is where our friends have their vacation home. The 19 tents are not of the Coleman variety but are deluxe painted wood versions of revival tents put up during 19th-century Pentecostalist preacher gatherings common in this area. The air-conditioned three-bedroom/two-bath Carpenter Gothic houses have covered decks, full kitchens, living/dining room with fireplace, and outdoor shower. Most are privately owned and some are rentable through Hope and Glory Inn or through vacation home rental websites.

I love vacationing with my family, but there's something so carefree about traveling with girlfriends. A time to pamper, shop, dine, and dish, these typically long-weekend getaways rejuvenate and strengthen gal bonds like no other. Last year, my friend Carol and I drove to Virginia's sleepy Northern Neck for a weekend visiting wineries and enjoying the water-based activities of the venerable Tides Inn resort on the Chesapeake Bay. Not quite Napa, but close; and we didn't need to get on a plane to get there.

To get you started planning your own, we've assembled a list of packages after the jump.

Here at Traveler, we love digging through the archive of photographs available to us at National Geographic to learn about the history of a place and see how it's changed over time (see our recent photo galleries on Yellowstone, Yosemite, and Kodachrome Culture for examples). We present a "Then and Now" photo feature in every issue, and have even dedicated an entire photo issue to looking at how the places we love have changed. So with that in mind, I was particularly taken with a photo set I stumbled upon on Flickr where the photographer, Jason Powell, aligned old photos in their contemporary settings. The collection, called "Looking into the Past" is culled primarily from images from the Library of Congress, and were reassembled in the area around D.C. and Virginia. He's right, they open a window into the past that's just fascinating. Powell says he was inspired by the "Souvenirs" series of images created by Michael Hughes, and also on Flickr. Both sets are great, and help us look at familiar places with a new light. Check out more images from "Looking into the Past" after the jump.

When you think of Williamsburg, Virginia, a lively culinary scene is probably not the first thing that comes to mind. Strolling down Williamsburg's Duke of Gloucester Street, with its understated colonial houses and interpreters clad in period dress, it's hard to imagine that walking just ten minutes further will bring you to the doorstep of a restaurant where you can order foie gras and pan-seared scallops. But you can--and should. Beth Lizardo recently returned from a long weekend in Virginia's Historic Triangle--composed of Williamsburg, Jamestown and Yorktown--and is still longing for some of the food she tasted during the trip. From biscuits and grits to broiled Norwegian salmon, the chefs in Virginia's Historic Triangle know how to cook food that you will not soon forget. Here's a rundown of some of her favorite eats.

Dudley's Farmhouse Grille

When chef Jim Kennedy opened Dudley's Farmhouse Grille in 2007, he set out to create a restaurant where locals could come and enjoy the freshest fare possible. "I envisioned going back to how I was trained to cook. You bought everything fresh. You went to local farmers," Kennedy explains. And this is exactly what he does. Kennedy is a regular at the local farmer's market and keeps an herb garden right outside the restaurant. The basil in Kennedy's caprese salad appetizer--oversized, intensely fragrant basil--comes from this garden. And he won't let you leave without trying his wife's homemade crème brûlé made with local eggs. Other items, such as the Southern-style grilled alligator entrée special, have traveled a little farther to make it onto the Dudley's menu, however.  

Affectionately named after Kennedy's dog, Dudley, the restaurant is a small business set in a1905 farmhouse. "Our kitchen is tiny," admits Kennedy. "We have two cooks and one dishwasher. It's like working on a train." The quaintness of the farmhouse setting is accentuated by its out-of-the-way location, which is in the town of Toano, located just off Route 60 about 25 minutes outside of Williamsburg.

We arrive at Dudley's while it's still light enough to admire the old wooden farm tables and local art--some for sale and some on loan from Kennedy's personal collection--hanging on the walls. As the evening progresses and the sun sets, the servers light candles and the dining room assumes a soft yellow glow. Throughout our meal Kennedy makes frequent visits to our table to sit down and chat. He talks about dishes he's served in the past (lavender-rubbed lamb; scallop and red pepper soup), about the ghost that haunts the upstairs level of the farmhouse, and about his three-year-old daughter who only eats gourmet. By the end of the meal it's clear that Dudley's is armed with much more than good food--it's armed with indisputable character.

Dudley's Farmhouse Grille, 7816 Richmond Rd, Toana, VA. +1 757 566 1157; www.dudleysfarmhousegrille.com

I was trying to explain to my non-American husband the other day why we should go to Monticello this summer. It's incredibly unique and fascinating, I said, but I was met with a blank stare. I faltered and whimpered, "Well I was there when I was a kid and...and...it was cool. He invented a lot of cool stuff, penned the Declaration of Independence, was a red-headed president, and his home's on the back of a nickel and..."
   
He's been unconvinced until now, but today I spied Maira Kalman's post on her illustrated blog, "And the Pursuit of Happiness," on www.nytimes.com.

Kalman's spirited post, "Time Wastes Too Fast," brims with biographical info about Jefferson presented in playful white script, whimsical illustrations of Monticello interiors, and photos of its stately façade.

Kalman, an American illustrator, author, artist, and designer, explores the conflicting nature of Jefferson; a slave owner who called slavery an abomination. She touches on his alleged relationship with Sally Hemmings and mentions the ongoing archaeological work at Monticello.

She asserts that to understand the U.S. you must go to Monticello to see "its people and what it means to be optimistic and complex and tragic and wrong and courageous..." Reason enough for my husband; plans are finally underway.

Read more about visiting Monticello the July/August issue of Traveler.

What places have you visited that have helped you better your understanding of a nation and its people on a philosophical level?

Image: Maira Kalman for the New York Times

I've been meaning to blog about my visit to Ray's Hell-Burger (get it?), a fantastic burger joint in Arlington, Virginia, which I visited the weekend before last. So imagine my surprise to hear that I missed spotting President Obama by just a few days! Turns out the POTUS and VPOTUS went out for lunch to the local eatery yesterday afternoon, surprising a long line of patrons who had turned up to grab a juicy burger and got a glimpse of the commander in chief instead. How's that for a burger endorsement?

It's obvious that Barack has good taste when it comes to burgers, and these are some of the best I've found in the D.C. area. The shop, which opened last fall, is a no-frills local spot decorated with B-movie posters; paper towel rolls stand in for napkin holders on the tables. The admittedly huge portions come laden with toppings, which range from the standard applewood smoked bacon and cheddar cheese, to highbrow selections like foie gras and truffle oil. The burgers themselves are made of the trimmings from the proprietor's other restaurant, Ray's the Steaks, which is just down the block from the shop, and all of them come served on a brioche roll, which does get a tad soggy if you're a slow eater. Best to grab it with both hands and dig in. No fries are served (apparently, the owner believes they detract from the burger experience) but you can get a side of cole slaw or potato salad, both of which are top-notch. Finish it off with a root beer and you might mistake Ray's Hell-Burger for heaven. 

Plan Ahead: If you're in the Washington area, you can check out Ray's by trekking across the river from D.C. to the Courthouse Metro stop in Virginia. If you arrive on a weekend, be sure to check out the flea market that pops up in a large parking lot nearby.

Ray's Hell-Burger: 1713 Wilson Blvd. Arlington, VA 22209; +1 703 841 0001.   

With the new visitor center opening at Monticello this week, now is the perfect time to plan a visit to Charlottesville, Virginia. IT Editor Janelle Nanos shares some of the highlights from her recent trip.

I'm no country bumpkin, but I do admit that I tend to feel a bit confined if I don't get out of the city from time to time. So a few weeks ago, when I was looking for a weekend away, my boyfriend and I decided to check out the rumors about Virginia wine country and packed up our car for the three-hour drive down to Charlottesville.

Home to both the University of Virginia and Monticello, Thomas Jefferson's quirky estate (did you know that both are World Heritage sites?), Charlottesville is a easy escape. Tucked in the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, downtown C'ville, as it's known to locals, is a hip mix of independent storefronts, a local theater and ice-skating rink, and a funky outdoor pavilion with free live performances every Friday during warmer months. Huge chalkboards along one stretch of the main thoroughfare encourage free speech - and the vibe is distinctly warm and friendly, even in February when I visited.

Pulling up to downtown C'ville and a bit hungry after the trip, we stumbled upon one of the best finds of the weekend: The delectable dumplings from Marco & Lucas. Cheap and hot, with a line of hungry college kids spilling out the door, this spot is located along the downtown pedestrian-only West Main Street, and they're the best dumplings I've found in the (relative) D.C. area. When fried, they were like little crunchy pockets of heaven, and honestly, I've been craving them ever since. Unbeknownst to us, these dumplings would kick off the weekend's theme: food and drink, as many of the adorable clothing shops closed early over the weekend. But that turned out to be just fine.

We were hoping to stay in a bed and breakfast, as there are dozens in the area, and were fortunate to find at room (on short notice) at the High Meadows Vineyard Inn in nearby Scottsville. Immediately taken with the periwinkle home with chartreuse shutters, I was even more smitten with our host, Nancy, who was incredibly warm and generous with her suggestions about where to visit in the area. Plus, she and her daughter make a mean breakfast - if you haven't tried their broiled grapefruit drizzled with honey and cinnamon, book your reservation now (plus, they offer great mid-week deals).

Well, here it is: the last (but not least!) of our Foodie Challenge photo contest winners.

We've seen some great pictures from all over the world--Georgia, Vienna, France, China--but this final photo was taken closer to home. Bill Harner snapped this image of an iconic U.S. meal after a day at the Virginia Safari Park in Natural Bridge, Virginia.

Bill tells about his Americana-inspired burger and a great little diner after the jump...