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Chatting with Tom Hanks

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on November 3, 2009 11:00 AM | Comments (0)

Last week, National Geographic Traveler assistant editor Janelle Nanos got to chat with legendary actor and World War II enthusiast Tom Hanks, who has "perhaps done more than anyone in Hollywood today to help tell the stories of the war with the film Saving Private Ryan and HBO series Band of Brothers" and who just helped produce the interactive film Beyond All Boundaries for the World War II Museum in New Orleans. Hanks's goal of the film--which premiers on November 8--was to make an impression: to give the viewer a chance to look beyond the familiar black-and-white portrayal of WWII and see that these were real people, living their lives in a period that would change them forever.

A trailer of the movie can be seen here. For the complete interview and insiders look at the film, click here.

Photo: Greg Gorman

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The Krewe of Boo

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Janelle Nanos

on October 15, 2009 10:30 AM | Comments (0)

Mardi Gras has been synonymous with New Orleans for over 150 years, but the man behind some of the most stalwart traditions of Fat Tuesday is trying to change his city from a one-holiday town. Blaine Kern, the owner of Kern Studios, which produces 80 percent of the floats that zigzag through the city throughout Mardi Gras season, is on a mission to make New Orleans the nation's new Halloween capital. In 2007, he started the Krewe of Boo, a month-long series of events that culminates in a huge all-out Halloween parade. "We have cemeteries, voodoo parlors, haunted houses, and Gothic architecture," Kern said recently, enumerating the city's many creepy assets. With all that spooky stuff, it was a no-brainer for him to launch a new parade and encourage visitors to take part in the costumed revelry.

But the root of Kern's efforts isn't simply a passion for goblins and ghouls. He created the event as a way to raise money for his charity, The First Responders Fund, which helps house and support the city's fire, EMS, and police departments, many of which are still recovering from the impact of Katrina. "I found out that after Katrina most of the police were going home to trailers at night," Kern says. "The only way I know how to raise money [is to throw a parade]. " He has partnered with the Salvation Army and plans to construct 10 homes for first responders in the Algiers neighborhood of the city this year. This year's parade will be held on October 24th, at 7 p.m., followed by the annual Costume Exposé. Tickets to the party are $100, and all proceeds from both events go toward the fund.

[Krewe of Boo]

Photo: Krewe of Boo

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Here Is Where: The End of the Road

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IT Blog

on October 14, 2009 10:10 AM | Comments (0)

In conjunction with his upcoming book, Here Is Where: In Search of America's Great Forgotten History, we've been following historian and Legacy Project founder Andrew Carroll as he drives, flies, walks, boats, buses, bikes, and hikes to seek out little-known historic sites in all 50 states. Today he shares his last blog post, at a site that inspired him to start the project. You can find all of his past posts here.

Pittsburgh is where I officially launched this 50-state journey last July, but in many ways the first stop of my journey was in New Orleans two years ago. The Big Easy was my "test" city back in the fall of 2007, and I hired a local guide named Rob Florence, considered the best in the business, to see how many unmarked history sites we could locate. I especially wanted to pinpoint spots that were unfamiliar to local residents--perhaps even to Rob himself.

Rob is exactly what you want in a guide: genuinely passionate, friendly, and, of course, knowledgeable about almost every nook of the city. He has also been instrumental in preserving the past. Rob helped place a new marker at the gravesite of Homer Plessey (of the infamous Plessey v. Ferguson Supreme Court decision) and has been involved in countless other activities to ensure that New Orleans' rich history is not lost.

In 2007 Rob and I found numerous forgotten history sites, including a secluded burial mound miles outside the French Quarter, a decrepit building at the corner of S. Rampart and Perdido where the "father of jazz" Buddy Bolton is said to have gotten his start, and, in a parking lot behind Houston's Restaurant on St. Charles Street, the scattered remains of the factory where Andrew Higgins built amphibious landing craft used in the 1944 D-Day landings (pictured, above). At the time, General Dwight D. Eisenhower credited Higgins and his boats with helping to win the war in Europe. After this first visit to New Orleans I decided that a larger, 50-state trip was in order.

I recently went back to see Rob, and I asked him to help me track down some additional forgotten history sites, especially one that, although not nationally significant, is personally meaningful to me.

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Cultural Recovery in New Orleans

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Susanne Hackett

on July 7, 2009 10:10 AM | Comments (2)

At this year's annual Jazz Fest in New Orleans, representatives from the four main industries of Louisiana's cultural economy--music, food, art, and film--gathered for a roundtable discussion on how their unique cultural heritage holds the key to economic recovery and growth in the region. With Lt. Governor Mitch Landrieu as the host, local luminaries such as Grammy-winning musician Terrance Simien, chef John Besh, folklorist and radio host Nick Spitzer, and artist James Michalopoulos shared their perspectives on how to keep local cultural traditions alive while building sustainable livelihoods.

A couple of themes emerged, such as the necessity of collaboration among the various industries, which is critical to the success of the whole cultural economy. Richard McCarthy, who runs the Crescent City Farmers Market, spoke of his partnership with chef John Besh to build relationships between local farmers and the city's renowned restaurants. The role of local government in both creating the space for cultural activity and providing economic incentives for cultural development was another important theme, with the most notable example being the tax incentives which have fueled Louisiana's burgeoning film industry.

I left the roundtable inspired by the creative synergy I witnessed among the panelists. As the region rebuilds from the devastation of Hurricane Katrina, it seems that New Orleans will be, as Nick Spitzer noted, "even greater than it was before." This is a destination to keep an eye on.

Video: Susanne Hackett

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D.C.'s Duke Ellington Jazz Festival

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Janelle Nanos

on June 11, 2009 2:41 PM | Comments (0)

The Duke Ellington Jazz Festival is in full swing here in D.C. this week, with over 100 performances in 35 venues around the city. This year's festival celebrates the music of New Orleans, and has a roster of artists -- Harry Connick Jr., Buckwheat Zydeco, Trombone Shorty -- that would make any jazz-hound swoon. While the huge, talent-packed event at the Kennedy Center this coming Monday is sold out, they'll be plenty of (free!) jazz performances on The Mall this weekend, and restaurants and clubs throughout D.C. are hosting acts as part of Jazz in the Hoods. I spoke with the festival's founder, Charles Fishman, yesterday about the events, and in the spirit of jazz, he riffed a bit with me about how it's come together.

"The first year we did three concerts and had programs in 11 different clubs, this year we have over 100 performances in 35 different venues in the city. Jazz in the Hood is going into restaurants, clubs, hotels, and galleries. Some of these places do jazz, but many of them don't. It's pretty overwhelming -- people keep calling us and saying they want to be involved. Working with all these clubs, it's very encouraging to see what the response has been.

"Jazz is the one of the only original American art forms. You need to expose people to jazz: They hardly hear it on the radio, they never see it on television, and the record studios aren't doing diddly squat. These festivals are becoming a force.

"To have two full days on the National Mall for such renowned musicians from New Orleans is an amazing opportunity. I think we're the first jazz festival to dedicate our festival to another city. With the exception of our artistic advisor - everybody is from New Orleans. Essentially we're offering a virtual microcosmic cornucopia of the diversity of the musical heritage of New Orleans, which has driven American culture. But unfortunately, many immortal jazz artists are more appreciated out of this country than in this country."

Fishman encourages anyone coming into D.C. this weekend to make their way to The Mall, and be sure to check out U Street, where much of the city's jazz history is found. As our interview/jam session ended, I thanked him for his time. "That's what we do, we jazz baby," he said with a laugh.

[Duke Ellington Jazz Festival; Schedule of Events]

Photo: Duke Ellington Jazz Festival

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Preview: The WWII Museum's New Wing

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IT Blog

on June 5, 2009 12:40 PM | Comments (5)

In recognition of the anniversary of D-Day Amelia Mularz offers a glimpse of the new wing of the National World War II museum in New Orleans.

Tomorrow marks the 65th anniversary of the D-Day invasion, and while most thoughts will be directed towards the shores of Normandy, I can't help but set my sights on a coastline a little closer to home, New Orleans.

As if you needed another reason to visit the Big Easy, the city's National WWII Museum is in the midst of a $300 million renovation. The massive project, which will quadruple the size of the current museum, is set for completion in 2015. But overanxious museum-goers (myself included) can breathe easy--the first three attractions will open as early as November 6th of this year.

One such attraction is the Victory Theater, a 250-seat space with a 120-ft-wide and 30-ft-tall screen. So what film could possibly be worthy of such an incredible theater? Beyond All Boundaries, a WWII documentary produced by Tom Hanks and exclusive to the Victory Theater, fits the bill. Hollywood's latest slew of 3D movies has nothing on Boundaries, which uses 4D technology. Beginning with the attack on Pearl Harbor, the movie screen literally grows as the US plunges into war. Later, seats rumble and in-theater weather effects transport audience members from the jungles of the Pacific, to the blistering cold of the Battle of the Bulge...much more intense than a pair of glasses.

Afterwards, decompress at the Stage Door Canteen, another feature set to open in November. Rock out to Big Band tunes and catch a glimpse of swing dancers in the new museum cafe, modeled after the original morale-boosting canteens of the 1940s. While Lauren Bacall won't be available for a jitterbug or Mickey Rooney for a joke, but there will be plenty of live performances, cocktails, and a bite to eat.

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The House of Dance and Feathers

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Janelle Nanos

on May 26, 2009 2:21 PM | Comments (0)

The corrugated tin roof of the House of Dance and Feathers slopes up like a jaunty cap over the glass-paneled building in Ronald K. Lewis' backyard. "Everything in this building has a story," says Lewis, as he pushed open the door to the museum he curates behind his Lower Ninth Ward home. Inside, the walls, ceiling, tables and floor are all lined with relics from the Mardi Gras Indian "tribes" that live in the area. There are intricately-beaded panels from Indian costumes, and huge fans and plumes of feathers dangling from the rafters. Photographs cover almost every available inch of wall space, and piles of books are stacked on the tables. You begin asking questions, and patiently, Lewis takes the time to share the stories inside.

House of Dance and Feathers has been Lewis' passion since 2000, when is started as a shed where he taught local children about the area's culture. A retired streetcar conductor, today Lewis is the president of the Big Nine Social and Pleasure Club and the former Council Chief of the Choctaw Hunters. His museum celebrates the history of the Mardi Gras Indians in the Lower Ninth Ward, and since Katrina, has become a small ray of hope within a community that is still struggling to recover. (When I arrived during my visit, the home next door to Lewis' was empty, and still bore the telltale cross that signified whether a body had been found by rescue crews).

"When Katrina came, I wanted to rebuild and become a beacon within my community," says Lewis. "It gave me a venue to tell the world what happened to us. Three and a half years later we're pushing forward. We're trying to do anything we can do to keep the glue within our community."

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Stompin' at the House of Blues

By

Susanne Hackett

on April 29, 2009 4:00 PM | Comments (2)

Following on the heels of a great New Orleans Jazzfest weekend, I decided to check out the Ponderosa Stomp festival last night at the legendary House of Blues in New Orleans' French Quarter. Described as a tribute to the "unsung heroes of rock 'n roll," the Stomp is one of many smaller--but by no means less fun--music festivals that fill the days between the two weekends of Jazzfest. And it's not only music, but a series of panel discussions where historians, artists and industry bigwigs talk about "rock's secret history."

I'm standing next to a guy who tells me he's from "across the lake." (Pontchartrain, I gather.) "I barely go to Jazzfest anymore," he tells me. "It's all about the Ponderosa Stomp for me. This festival pays homage to the roots of rock n' roll." He's holding a freshly autographed book about the band that just performed, The Remains, who performed with the Beatles on their last U.S. tour. "It's great, because you can go to the conference during the day and hear these guys talk about their music, then come here at night to hear them play."

Nick Spitzer of American Routes introduces the next artist, Howard Tate. About halfway through his set, Tate says he's going to sing a song he recorded back in 1967 on Verve Records. It turns out to be "Get It While You Can," an old favorite of mine which I'd mistakenly assumed to be a Janis Joplin original (and have sung in the shower myself more than a few times). I'm not the only one in the House who's singing along to Tate's soulful rendition, and the crowd erupts with cheers when he finishes.

There's still one night left, so if you're in the Big Easy tonight, head down to the House of Blues to hear these unsung heroes sing. And if you want some truly local color, be sure to check out today's Chazfest, a quirky, homegrown Jazzfest alternative named after local washboard player Chaz Leary.

Photo: Howard Tate performs at the House of Blues, by Krista Rossow

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If Jean Knight Calls You Mr. Big Stuff, Watch Out

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IT Blog

on April 21, 2009 11:30 AM | Comments (0)

The New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival (kicking off this weekend) isn't the only big spring show in town. The Ponderosa Stomp Festival and Concert may not have quite as high a profile, but for eight years the event, organized by anesthesiologist "Dr. Ike," has more than met its mission of "celebrating the unsung heroes of American music."

The 2009 edition, April 28 and 29 at the House of Blues and other venues, will feature the Legendary Stardust Cowboy, the horn section that backed up Al Green, Dan [he wrote "The Letter"] Penn, a tribute to the great piano man/singer Eddie Bo, who passed away this year, and the Jean Knight, whose 1970s hit, "Mr. Big Stuff," is part of the French Quarter soundtrack (you can listen to it here). Knight is hoping recent toe surgery won't keep her from climbing the steps to the stage this year. Marc Silver spoke with the singer about her plans for the show.

Your toe might keep you away?

I can't wear the shoes I want to wear.

What kind?

Oh, I like glitter shoes, I'll be glittering.

Is the Stomp a special kind of concert?

Oh yeah, it's fun. It'll be real packed, packed with people. They love it.

Is "Mr. Big Stuff" your favorite song to sing?

"Big Stuff" is my favorite. But let me tell you, when I came across that song, I didn't like the melody. It sounded like some kind of church song.

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I Heart My City: Erin's New Orleans

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IT Blog

on March 23, 2009 5:00 PM | Comments (2)

Hello, city-lovers! Today's Southern city is New Orleans, which just wrapped up its Mardi Gras celebrations a few weeks ago. Read below to find out Erin Krall's favorite picks around Crescent City.

Want to see your hometown on IT? Copy and paste our list of fill-in-the-blank questions into an e-mail, fill in your answers, and send your responses to IntelligentTravel@ngs.org. And if you're still waiting for us to feature yours, fear not! We're attempting to post them as fast as we can (include photos and links!).

New Orleans is My City

The first place I take a visitor from out of town is the local bar in my neighborhood, The Avenue. It's my home away from home, and a friendly place that is a great, authentic introduction to our daily life here.

When I crave a perfect New Orleans setting with great food, history, drinks and service I always go to Napoleon House.

To escape the frustrating urban issues that come with city life I head to City Park, an oasis of tropical birds and vegetation.

If I want to relax in the heart of downtown (the CBD) I go to the Piazza D'Italia.

For complete quiet, I can hide away in Crescent City Books, a used bookstore with two floors of great finds to hunt through and relax on a coach over looking Chartres Street in the French Quarter.

If you have to order one thing off the menu from K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen (Paul Prudhomme's restaurant) it has to be the Shrimp Remoulade and Fried Green Tomatoes appetizer.

Zara's is my one-stop shop for great local groceries and over-stuffed po' boys, plate lunches, and other local dishes served at a counter in the back of this small corner grocery.

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Mardi Gras Moments: The Bead Greed Gallery

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IT Blog

on March 3, 2009 5:20 PM | Comments (0)

Here at IT, we're still on a high from our time in New Orleans last week, so we have a few additional Mardi Gras Moments to share before moving onto our next project. Enjoy!

Associate Photo Editor Krista Rossow took some time on Bourbon Street to document the "Bead Greed" phenomenon that we described in an earlier post. Note: these beads were earned in many different ways; the photographer earned hers by catching them in one hand by holding the camera in the other...fully clothed.

Photos: Associate Photo Editor Krista Rossow

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Mardi Gras Moments: Irrational Geographic

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Janelle Nanos

on March 2, 2009 4:35 PM | Comments (2)

IT Editor Janelle Nanos has been blogging about her behind-the-scenes Mardi Gras Moments for the past few weeks, and she and a few other Traveler staffers went down to New Orleans to document the celebration.

While wandering the streets of New Orleans with the Societé de Sainte Anne parade, we National Geographic folk stumbled upon Danielle King, a photographer who was costumed as... a National Geographic photographer. Wearing a thick blonde mustache and a pith hat and vest, she carried around our iconic yellow border (cut from the pages of an actual magazine). Her project was called "Irrational Geographic," and she attempted to photograph both the wildlife, and the wild life, of the Mardi Gras experience. She snapped my portrait and I passed her my card, and lo and behold, a gallery of images arrived in my inbox a few days later. I loved them so much I just had to share them here, and asked King to explain the project in her own words.

Her e-mail after the jump.

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Mardi Gras Moments: The Societé de Sainte Anne

By

Janelle Nanos

on February 27, 2009 5:10 PM | Comments (3)

IT Editor Janelle Nanos has been blogging about her behind-the-scenes Mardi Gras Moments for the past few weeks, and this past weekend, she and a few other Traveler staffers went down to New Orleans to document the celebration.

After weeks of blogging about Mardi Gras, I set off to see it for myself, along with fellow Traveler staffers photo editor Krista Rossow and our business manager and resident videographer Susanne Hackett. Even though I'd done a fair share of reporting before I arrived, I still wasn't sure what to expect when we got there. I realized this was in part because of the pre-conceived notions so many people had when we talked to them about our trip. There is a stereotypical way to go to New Orleans and experience Mardi Gras, and it involves a lot of beads and booze, so when you tell people you're going, there is an almost knee-jerk reaction to roll eyes. But what we saw and experienced was, at the risk of sounding cliché, actually quite magical.

Perhaps it was a sign that our friend, who hosted us this weekend, has a costume closet in his basement. I'm not sure if this is a normal occurrence in other cities, but was perfectly natural in New Orleans, where the entire city seems to suspend reality and recreate itself over the course of the Carnival season. So within moments of dropping off our bags, we were whisked away to a costume party on the evening we arrived. The following day, as we stood on the sidelines of Sunday's parades, we came to coin the term "bead greed" as we stretched our hands up at the masked krewe-members on the floats, hoping to snatch another bauble. Between breaks in the parades, we wandered to the side streets to watch a smaller gaggle of people celebrate the arrival of the krewe of Bacchus, named for the god of wine, by having their own costumed Box of Wine parade. It was a vino-spectacle. When Bacchus began to actually roll, our necks quickly grew to ache as we collected our treasures (what to do with them now is the bigger question), but by night's end we and fellow Traveler researcher Rachael Dunlap were at Le Bon Temps Roule listening to the fantastic brass band Soul Rebels, who worked the crowd into a frenzy under the watchful gaze of an alligator portrait. One day of Mardi Gras can feel like it has chapters, and you start to forget where and when you began in the first place.

But that wasn't even the beginning.

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Mardi Gras Moments: Lundi Gras

By

Janelle Nanos

on February 25, 2009 5:20 PM | Comments (2)

IT Editor Janelle Nanos has been blogging about her behind-the-scenes Mardi Gras Moments for the past few weeks, and this weekend, she and a few other Traveler staffers went down to New Orleans to document the celebration. We're busy downloading photos and videos to give you a glimpse of the Carnival spirit, but today offer a snippet from Lundi Gras, the Monday before Fat Tuesday.

If there's one thing I learned this weekend, it's that Mardi Gras is a marathon, not a sprint. That applies both literally--in the fact that sneakers are a must, and the ground we covered could easily be close to 26 miles--and figuratively, as there is so much happening that trying to do it all could result in exhaustion. But while the party is in a slow boil over the course of the last few days, the night of Lundi Gras, or the Monday before Mardi Gras, is when the party officially begins. At 6 p.m. on the city's Riverfront, there is an annual event to announce who will be Rex, the King of Carnival. This ceremonial position is often bestowed to a local businessman or bigwig within the community, and the mayor actually cedes control of the city to Rex for the day. Rex and the king of Zulu then have a ceremonial meeting, and the two men and their queens stir up the crowd as they announce the official start to Mardi Gras. Here's a glimpse of Mayor Ray Nagin handing over control to Rex.

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Mardi Gras Moments: Handa Wanda's

By

Janelle Nanos

on February 23, 2009 4:30 PM | Comments (2)

Last month, IT Editor Janelle Nanos traveled to New Orleans to explore the culture and traditions of Mardi Gras. For four days, she spoke with the people behind the masks -- the ones who help make the celebration happen -- to get their stories and insider tips. She's been blogging about her experiences throughout the month, and is there now experiencing the celebration firsthand. You can read through all of the Mardi Gras Moments featured so far.

I've been talking a lot about the Mardi Gras Indians, and now that I'm actually down here, I'm really excited to see them tomorrow live and in person. But I did get a sneak peek while I was here in January, by visiting the Indian practice at Handa Wanda's. Located in Central City, the club (and the nearby Yia Cafe, where the practice was held the night we visited) is not the safest part of town. But if you're smart and don't wander too far away from the club, it's a terrific opportunity to get a glimpse of the Indian experience, particularly for anyone who comes down to New Orleans when it's not in the full throes of the Carnival season.

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Mardi Gras Moments: The Mother-in-Law Lounge

By

Janelle Nanos

on February 20, 2009 5:15 PM | Comments (3)

The other day, I wrote about the glorious Mardi Gras Indian costumes on display at the Backstreet Cultural Museum. But while it's great to see them up close (where you're able to oogle the beadwork) I'd have to think that it's even better to watch the Indians live and in person. And there's perhaps no more perfect place to do it on Mardi Gras than at the Mother-in-Law Lounge, in the company of the lovely Miss Antoinette K-Doe.

Miss Antoinette is the wife of the late Ernie K-Doe, a singer who parlayed his hit song, "Mother-in-Law," into a lifelong singing career, and was treated as a local celebrity in the city. White leather couches and a huge television greet you when you step inside, as does a life-sized effigy of Ernie, who is decked out in a costume and available, as always, for pictures. The back room has a stage where for performers, and there's a side garden decorated with toilet-bowl and tub planters. It's a hoot and a huge hub for the celebration known to the locals as the "Under the Bridge" or "neighborhood" Mardi Gras.

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Mardi Gras Moments: What Not to Do

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IT Blog

on February 19, 2009 5:30 PM | Comments (15)

Over the past few weeks, we've been featuring Mardi Gras Moments showing some of the highlights from New Orleans throughout the carnivale season. But today we change gears a bit as our resident expert Jenn Blatty offers a quick list of ways to stay out of trouble on Fat Tuesday.

Top 10 Things NOT To Do During Mardi Gras

1.   Do not stray from the crowds! Even if someone who seems perfectly cordial and trustworthy invites you to a party "around the corner," or offers up his or her bathroom -- or you think you know a shortcut through a dark alley or dimly lit and empty street. If you are not surrounded by tourists, you are a perfect target for the New Orleans predators. Stay where the action is.

2.    Arrange a meeting point with your friends and family immediately upon arriving to the scene. It's easy to be separated from your group during the festivities, whether you're wandering through the zoo of people, or distractedly following the hot trail of a passing float for a pair of Mardi Gras underwear that you just HAVE to have. Do yourself a favor and pick out a rally point before this happens.

3.    Do not carry your money, credit cards, or anything important tucked away in your back pocket, especially if you brave it up enough to hit Bourbon Street! This is the perfect opportunity to fall victim to the Mardi Gras pickpockets.

4.    Be wary of the scam artists! If someone approaches you with the question, "I bet you $100 I know where you got your shoes" or any question along those lines, do yourself a favor and do not wager! Even if you purchased your shoes on Mars, they will get you every time with the infamous answer: "on your feet." And at that point you may feel obliged to pay, because technically they are correct, aren't they? Sometimes it's even common to be forced into a service, such as someone offering a shoeshine, and before you know it they are shining your shoes and demand immediate payment (even if you said "no thanks" loud and clear). Avoid these folks as much as possible. The more you stall, the higher the chance of being pushed into a bad situation. Just keep on moving.

5.     Petting the police officer's horse is a serious no-no, unless you want to risk spending the night behind bars. The New Orleans cops are already more than likely irritated with the out of control and drunk tourists, especially the one who thinks it would be funny to slap and startle a horse. So even if you are just an animal lover wanting to reach out, keep your hands to yourself! It is not uncommon to be arrested for touching a cop's horse in any shape or form, so just don't do it.

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Mardi Gras Moments: The Little Shop of Fantasy

By

Janelle Nanos

on February 18, 2009 4:50 PM | Comments (3)

Last month, IT Editor Janelle Nanos traveled to New Orleans to explore the culture and traditions of Mardi Gras. For four days, she spoke with the people behind the masks -- the ones who help make the celebration happen -- to get their stories and insider tips. She'll be blogging about her experiences through February 24th, when the party culminates. Check back for more Mardi Gras Moments.

It's hard not to feel like you're being watched when you enter the home and workshop of sisters Laura and Ann Guccione. Push open the two wooden doors to their 1830s-era Creole cottage, and you'll find yourself in a room covered floor-to-ceiling in gorgeous, intricate, dazzingly delicate masks, depicting the likes of Marie Antoinette, jesters, cats, clowns, and other facades made from leather, wire, feathers, papier-mâché and even silverware. And they're watching your every move.

The two sisters got started in mask-making when their mother, a nurse, cared for a local merchant Mark Stark, who was renowned in the French Quarter for his feathered masks. They began working with him in his shop, The Little Shop of Fantasy, while he recovered, and eventually they came to help run the store, taking it over in 1998 when he died. Growing up in the city, they had always wanted to have a shop in the Quarter, but after Katrina, their overhead costs grew too steep, so now the two sisters make and sell their masks, alongside a collection of amazing masks from over 35 artists, out of their home. The mask-making community is a small one, and the sisters believe they are the only remaining mask-makers who still live in the city.

"The costume starts with the mask," Ann explains of the Mardi Gras tradition, which stems from the belief that in the final hours before the Lenten season begins, the mask allows for you to become more uninhibited and fully enjoy the last moments of fun. She says that people will often email them with their costume ideas and make requests for orders months before the celebration begins. Prices range from $35-$200 for a mask, with the average being about $80. You can visit their shop by appointment, where you can see the confluence of glitter and feathers and industrial glue guns and bizarre face-shaped molds they use for their creations. When I visited them in January, they had about 50 masks to make by Mardi Gras. "We're pretty much covered in glitter" throughout the season, said Laura.

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The Mardi Gras Moments Map

By

IT Blog

on February 17, 2009 2:10 PM | Comments (0)

Those of you who have been enjoying our Mardi Gras Moments, or who are planning a trip to the Big Easy for Fat Tuesday, check out our new interactive map highlighting the ways the locals celebrate in New Orleans.

Have your own recommendations? Let us know in the comments, below.

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Mardi Gras Moments: Locals Know Best

By

IT Blog

on February 13, 2009 3:45 PM | Comments (0)

For the past few days, IT editor Janelle Nanos has been blogging about her Mardi Gras Moments. But today she cedes the floor to our photo intern Jenn Blatty, a New Orleans native who has been to more celebrations that she can count. Here's her take on where to catch the festivities -- and stay tuned for her list of things NOT to do on the big day.

While Mardi Gras is a once in a lifetime "must do," it can be quite the overwhelming experience for everyone, even the New Orleans locals. If you want to avoid the standard chaos of the tourists, avoid the French Quarter altogether. The place to be is in uptown New Orleans, on St. Charles Street in the Garden District area. It offers a little more of the easygoing "laissez les bon temps roulez" (let the good times roll) temperament of the natives without the pushing and shoving that you are more likely to experience downtown. The corner of Napoleon and St. Charles is a perfect starting point: from there you can walk to plenty of local hangouts and good eats (Parasol's, Fat Harry's, Igor's, Superior Grill), and even explore the historic Garden District homes or one of the famous New Orleans cemeteries, Lafayette Cemetery #1. And if you like making new friends, you may even find yourself joining a local house party and catching beads above the crowds from a St. Charles Street balcony.

But for those of you who are tempted to stick your toe in the madness without taking the full plunge, ensure you hit Frenchmen Street in the Marigny. It's a perfect blend of the tourists who stumble over on foot from Bourbon Street, and the locals who just point blank love to go there for the live music and good times.

Photo: Jenn Blatty

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Mardi Gras Moments: The Backstreet Cultural Museum

By

Janelle Nanos

on February 12, 2009 5:45 PM | Comments (1)

Last month, IT Editor Janelle Nanos traveled to New Orleans to explore the culture and traditions of Mardi Gras. For four days, she spoke with the people behind the masks -- the ones who help make the celebration happen -- to get their stories and insider tips. She'll be blogging about her experiences through February 24th, when the party culminates. Check back for more Mardi Gras Moments throughout the coming weeks.

The Backstreet Cultural Museum deceives upon first glance - its rather plain-looking appearance from the street belies a rainbow of colors that peacock inside. Step through the doors of this eclectic museum and you'll find some of the most fascinating glimpses into the African-American Mardi Gras traditions, from the dazzling feathered costumes of the Mardi Gras Indians, to a detailed photographic history of Jazz Funerals, Second Lines, and the area's Social Aid and Pleasure Clubs. The entire museum has been the life's work of Sylvester Francis, who has devoted most of his adult life to taking photos of the Mardi Gras celebrations.

A bit of a backstory: There is no single event during Mardi Gras, and no single place to take part in the revelry. In the Tremé section of town, you'll find the historically black, "Under the Bridge" Mardi Gras celebration, and this is where you'll also come across one of the biggest spectacles around - the Mardi Gras Indians.

The history of the Indians is said to have developed from the time when African-American slaves ran away from their owners and were helped by the American Indians who lived in the region. To pay tribute to their support, families would create tribes of their own, and assign members to different roles. If you attend the parade today, you'll see the Chief, who's often the head of the family, and the Wildman, who's there to protect the chief (they typically wear horns). Then there's the trail or "second" who walks behind the chief to protect his back. There are Spyman, Queens and even children that participate as Little Chiefs and Wildmen. If you watch the crowd, you'll probably see a stroller or two decked out in feathers.

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Mardi Gras Moments: Traipsing Through Tremé

By

Janelle Nanos

on February 9, 2009 5:00 PM | Comments (3)

Last month, IT Editor Janelle Nanos traveled to New Orleans to explore the culture and traditions of Mardi Gras. For four days, she spoke with the people behind the masks -- the ones who help make the celebration happen -- to get their stories and insider tips. She'll be blogging about her experiences through February 24th, when the party culminates. Check back for more Mardi Gras Moments throughout the coming weeks.

On my first full day in town, I set out with a friend to wander the streets where different Mardi Gras celebrations take place. We headed first to the Tremé neighborhood, which is home to many of the city's musicians, and is considered the major hub for the African-American festivities throughout the Mardi Gras season. (It's also the location of the new HBO series currently in development, which is directed by David Simon of The Wire, that will focus on post-Katrina life in the city). Today the neighborhood feels very much in flux, and there are signs that is becoming increasingly gentrified. The mix of Creole and English homes that line the streets appear somewhat incongruous: some are brightly painted, while others remain blighted, cross-riddled, and left gutted by the hurricane. Sotheby's signs are cropping up like mushrooms.

Tremé is historically known as the place where the Creole and Africans met, and there is a park in the center of the neighborhood that became known as Congo Square. It's considered the ground zero of jazz, and is now on the National Register of Historic Places.

In the 18th century, Congo Square was the place where African slaves would meet on Sundays - the one day that they were not required to work - to reconvene with family and friends and celebrate through music and dancing. At the time, visitors would gather to watch the performances, which were unlike anything that anyone had seen. Today Congo Square is just one section of Louis Armstrong Park, a large stretch of land that abuts the French Quarter, which also houses the Municipal Auditorium, and the recently reopened Mahalia Jackson Theater of the Performing Arts. Debuting with an all-star celebration this January after being damaged in the storm, the theater will now host the Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra, the New Orleans Ballet Association, and the New Orleans Opera Association.

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Mardi Gras Moments: The Krewe of Zulu

By

Janelle Nanos

on February 4, 2009 2:20 PM | Comments (4)

Last month, IT Editor Janelle Nanos traveled to New Orleans to explore the culture and traditions of Mardi Gras. For four days, she spoke with the people behind the masks -- the ones who help make the celebration happen -- to get their stories and insider tips. She'll be blogging about her experiences through February 24th, when the official party begins. Check back for more Mardi Gras Moments throughout the coming weeks.

Larry Roy, the Minister of Fun for the Krewe of Zulu, at the official opening of the "Tramps to Kings" exhibit.

A few weeks ago, I went down to New Orleans to scope out the start to the Mardi Gras season. It was just a few days after Twelfth Night, when the season officially begins, and the city was already beginning to buzz. After arriving at the airport, I explained to my cabbie that it was my first visit to NOLA, and as he drove me into town he mentioned that the "only thing this city is serious about is having fun."

So I wasn't all that surprised to meet my two friends waiting for me in my hotel lobby, who urged me to hustle and get dressed - we had partying to do. I happened to arrive on the night of the opening of the new "Tramps to Kings" Zulu exhibit at the Louisiana State Museum, and so we hurried to the center of the French Quarter, where a celebration was in progress in Jackson Square. By the times we arrived, a jazz band had the audience swinging their hips, the warm night air had people spilling into the streets, and I'd already met a half-dozen locals who had welcomed me to town - and I'd only been in town for all of 20 minutes. I felt a little bit like when Annie arrives at Daddy Warbucks's mansion, and hummed a few lines of, "I think I'm going to like it here."

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Plan My Trip: New Orleans

By

Janelle Nanos

on January 9, 2009 9:45 AM | Comments (8)

Mardi Gras is here! Okay well not exactly, but earlier this week, the city residents celebrated Twelfth Night, the celebration of the Epiphany and the Three Kings' arrival, which is the day that officially kicks off the Carnival season. So I'm heading down to New Orleans tonight to do some reporting on how best to celebrate like a local, and naturally, I need your help. I'll be in town for four days meeting up with some of the krewes, but I'm always up for suggestions and recommendations.

What's the advice you'd give a Mardi Gras virgin? What are the ways the locals experience the festivities? What should you not do while you're there, so as to avoid being a total tourist? Let me know. And stay tuned for updates from my visit!

Photo: A rainy day on Bourbon Street, by Divemasterking2000 via the Intelligent Travel Flickr pool

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Celebrating the Season: New Orleans

By

Susan O'Keefe

on December 17, 2008 4:00 PM | Comments (2)

All through December we'll be showcasing the best of the holiday season in cities around the world. Today it's Christmastime in New Orleans and we've asked local experts for the essential ways to enjoy the winter's best. Visitors and locals alike come together to celebrate the holidays and the New Year, and we encourage you to share your own favorites with us in the comments below. You can find all of the cities we've already visited and stay up to date on the rest by bookmarking the series here.

Liz Williams, President and Director

Southern Food and Beverage Museum

Candlelight caroling in Jackson Square and beignets with coffee and chicory at Cafe du Monde.

Midnight Mass at St. Louis Cathedral, whether you're Catholic or not, is very traditional, coupled with a great meal.

Feasting on Turkey Bone Gumbo made with the remains from Christmas turkeys.

Going to Twelfth Night parties on January 6 to open the Mardi Gras season and eating the first King Cake of the season. Randazzo's Bakery has a good traditional New Orleans King Cake, and Maurice's Bakery has a great French King Cake.

Dining at Galatoire's the Friday before Christmas--one of the most popular days of the year to go to the restaurant. The tables are auctioned off with the proceeds benefiting the local community.

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American Beauty: Art in Unexpected Places

By

Rachael Dunlap

on November 26, 2008 12:00 PM | Comments (2)

As you head towards downtown New Orleans from the Louis Armstrong International Airport (obviously to heed our advice by checking out Prospect.1), keep an eye out for art turning up in some unexpected places along Airline Drive - specifically on motel walls.

The strip of Highway 61 that links the airport to the Big Easy isn't exactly scenic. Scattered with nondescript buildings and fast-food chains, it definitely isn't a place one would expect to find unique art installations.

Enter: American Beauty, South.

Launched by Canadian transplant Jack Niven, the American Beauty, South project has collaborated with eight motels to install large-scale (from 4' x 8' to 8' x 16') artworks on exterior walls facing Airline Drive. Each of the installations is unique and crafted by a different artist, but they all explore some concept of the South, beauty in America, or Highway 61 itself.

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