
With the beads and revelry of Mardi Gras behind us and in the throes of the Lent season, it's time to look forward to Semana Santa (Holy Week), a elaborate commemoration of the last week of Christ's life. Though I'm not a religious soul, I fell into marking Semana Santa while studying abroad in
Seville, Spain.My initiation to the reams of tradition associated with Semana Santa started our very first day in sticky Seville when my classmate asked our Spanish lit teacher why Ku Klux Klan lollipops were for sale in shops throughout the city. She gasped and launched into an explanation of Semana Santa and the
Nazarenos (Nazarenes), members of local churches'
cofradías (brotherhoods) who wear
capirotes (peaked hats similar to those of the infamous Klan) while accompanying their Baroque wooden sculptures of Christ and the Virgin throughout the city.
Semana Santa has been celebrated in Seville in pretty much its current form since the 16th century. Over 50,000
cofradía members don traditional robes and solemnly traverse the city in over 116
pasos (passes) from Palm Sunday to Easter morning. A capella
saetas (sad songs) accompany some processions, brass bands others, while some remain silent. Some
pasos occur during the day while others are candlelit and border on spooky at night. During Semana Santa, the sweet smell of
azahares (orange blossoms) muddled with incense and loads of candle wax permeates the city.
After the jump, get some tips on how to get the most out of Semana Santa if you're lucky enough to experience it this year, April 5 to 12.
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