In conjunction with his upcoming book, Here Is Where: In Search of America's Great Forgotten History, we're following historian and Legacy Project founder Andrew Carroll as
he drives, flies, walks, boats, buses, bikes, and hikes to seek out
little-known historic sites in all 50 states. Bookmark all of his posts here.
It's terrible to say, but before embarking on my 50-state journey, I had made little effort as a traveler to find hotels and bed & breakfast lodgings designated as historic landmarks. I hadn't stayed in many before, so my prejudice was unfounded, but I just assumed that "historic" was code for outdated air conditioning/heating, unreliable Internet service, and lumpy beds.
While researching hotels in Denver, however, I came across the
Brown Palace Hotel & Spa in a
terrific hotel guide put out by the
National Trust for Historic Preservation (it was also featured in
National Geographic Traveler's annual Stay List in 2008). Built by Henry Brown in the last 1800s, the name jumped out at me and I immediately made a reservation.
When I began preparing for this trip more than a year ago I did extensive reading on the
Underground Railroad, and while its existence is hardly unknown--I think most of us have at least a vague awareness of its significance in our nation's past--the specific stories have been mostly forgotten.
One of the most extraordinary involves a crate shipped from Richmond, Virginia, to 131 Arch Street, Philadelphia, at 4:00 am on March 29, 1849. When the wooden box arrived at 6:00 am at the Pennsylvania Anti-Slavery Society more than a day later, members of the abolitionist Vigilance Committee were there to receive it but, knowing its supposed contents, dreaded opening it for fear of what they might find. One of the members tapped on the crate and asked if everything was "all right within?" A muffled voice replied in the affirmative, and the members
quickly pried open the box and let an escaped slave named Henry Brown experience his first breath of freedom. Brown had survived an excruciating almost 27-hour journey, and despite bold lettering on the box directing that it be kept "This Side Up," the crate was repeatedly dropped upside down, putting almost fatal pressure on Brown's neck and head.
I had read that Brown became a successful businessman and moved to Colorado, where he opened one of the most elegant hotels in the city. After I made my reservation, I was shocked that although the hotel's own website repeatedly mentioned how historic the building was, there was no picture of Brown and no mention of his daring escape--just a brief description that he was a "Denver carpenter-turned-entrepreneur." Which is a little like referring to Beethoven as a piano tuner.
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